A Special Wine for the Holidays: Viña Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva 2011
Viña Tondonia is a mythic name in the world of Spanish wine. López de Heredia, the winery and family behind Tondonia, is among the most traditional of the classic Rioja producers. What makes them so is their use of traditional Rioja blends (Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo, Viura) and especially their extremely long aging period, both in barrel and in bottle, before release. As some drinkers’ taste has shifted from classic Rioja to more modern styles, Tondonia has become even more popular, a winery so old school that they’ve become cool due to their unflagging patience.
If a producer so obsessed with aging made a rosé, what would it be like? Thankfully, you don’t have to imagine it. Viña Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva can hardly be compared to the easy-drinking summer rosés that are so popular around the world. The current vintage on the market is a 2011, having spent 4 years in barrel and the remaining years in bottle. Unlike most red Riojas, Tondonia Rosado is mostly Garnacha, helped along by Tempranillo and a bit of white Viura. What awaits when you open a bottle is a beautifully colored wine darkened by age but still clearly a rosé. When you put your nose into the glass, however, you’ll be greeted by aromas from another universe. It’s fresh, but with enormous complexity and aromas that veer from red fruit into spices and slight oxidative notes.
Viña Tondonia Rosado
2011
When you taste Tondonia Rosado for the first time, it’s certain to be a surprise. Rather than the direct fruit that characterizes many young rosés, here you’ll find complex fruit flavors smoothed out by age but kept lively by a bright acidity. It fills your mouth with flavor and has a long finish reminiscent of a great white wine. Each sip makes you want to take another, and each reveals a new aspect. This is a rosé that evolves after opening, so it’s a good idea to take your time and come back to it. It’s also, frankly, a polarizing wine. To lovers of classic Rioja and the house style of Viña Tondonia, as well as fortified wine enthusiasts, it is often love at first sight. If, on the other hand, you come in expecting a Provence or Navarra rosé, you’re likely to be shocked by the dry complexity that characterizes Tondonia Rosado. It’s not a wine for everyone, but it’s an essential experience for any curious wine lover.
If you are a fan of Tondonia Rosado you’ll likely be overjoyed to drink it by itself, but part of the fascination with this wine comes from its versatility in food pairing. It can stand in for a white wine, a younger rosé, or even a red wine. You can drink it through a whole meal with a variety of flavors, because it has enough complexity to stand up to strong dishes, enough acidity to clean most palates, and enough aging to pair with very difficult combinations. The wine is popular with sommeliers for this versatility; some have had success combining Tondonia Rosado with Asian dishes and spicy food, normally difficult matches for wine.
This is not a cheap wine, nor is it easy to find, but it’s worth seeking out a bottle for the holidays or another special occasion. If you’re buying a bottle for immediate consumption, give the open bottle time to evolve. It’s also important to remember that all Tondonia wines can age for years and decades in bottle, so it’s okay to put Tondonia Rosado in the cellar for as long as you can wait. When you finally decide to uncork a bottle, you’ll be drinking a true rarity.