BASQUE COUNTRY & RIOJA FOOD & WINE

Bilbao → Rioja → San Sebastian

☾ 7 Nights

TRIP OVERVIEW

Explore the three pillars of the Basque Country and Rioja, the birthplaces of some of Spain’s best food and wine. Bilbao is Basque and proud, hyper-local and forward-looking. Arch-traditional eateries, ultramodern fine dining and a gleaming new waterfront complete with the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim. Nearby Rioja is wine country, the land of Spanish fine wines for over a century. You’ll go deep in the local wine world at classic houses and specialist growers while immersing yourself in the hearty local cuisine. Finish your journey in international and aristocratic San Sebastián. This beautiful coastal city shepherded in modern cuisine and fine dining in Spain, and it’s one of the world’s great eating cities. You’ll see varied sides of the food scene, from the heaving pintxos bars of the old town to coastal seafood feasts, real-food fine dining and an insider gastronomic club experience.


BASQUE COUNTRY & RIOJA FOOD & WINE

Day 1 – Bilbao: Welcome to the Basque Country

Start off in Bilbao, the Basque capital, a once-industrial city reborn thanks largely to the whimsical Guggenheim Museum and surrounding riverfront (the Guggenheim Effect). Your luxury hotel The Artist is just across the street from the museum, and its roof terrace offers views of transformed Bilbao. For dinner, it’s Michelin star Mina, a seafood-focused Basque restaurant that embodies Bilbao’s fine dining ethos. The open-kitchen dining room serves just a few tables a tasting menu that changes with the seasons and whims of the market. Expect subtle, bright dishes that feature local fish and seafood, some with Japanese influence. A cellar full of small-production wines allows the expert, friendly staff to pair the dishes perfectly (expect sparkling and white wine above all).

Day 2 – The Art of the Basque Lunch

There are few places like Kate Zaharra Restaurant. In a Basque multistory caserío, or farmhouse, the action starts in the cellar where you choose your wine and begin your eating. Down there, appetizers, maybe Iberian jamón or a plate of shrimp or umami 00 Cantabrian anchovies. With your wine in hand, up to the dining room. Meat and fish and shellfish and local vegetables are your choices. Your best course of action is to let them guide you. Trust us, you will be happy. And in awe of how much food you put away and where the last three hours went. Once you arrive in the Rioja our local insider wine expert will introduce you to some remarkable and distinctive Rioja wines in a private wine tasting followed by a tapas dinner in the hotel.

Day 3 – Classics and Forgotten Grapes

Start your wine journey in the prime vineyard zone of Rioja Alavesa. At Elena Corzana, you’ll be eased into a unique vision of Rioja wine. Corzana has returned to her hometown of Navarrete drawn by the potential of the vineyards here and especially of rediscovered grape Maturana. Maturana makes fresh wines, savory and aromatic and very different from the classic Rioja reds. A visit with Elena, where you can see her amphorae, before a tasting of artisan wines. Then it’s on to the grandeur of the Contino wine estate. This Riojan chateau makes all its luxurious wines from the vineyards surrounding the winery in a bend of the Ebro River. The place is a real oasis and makes classic long-aged reds alongside some award-winning oddities. The Reserva and Gran Reserva are benchmarks: long-aged blends that can last forever in the cellar. The oddities: varietal wines from Graciano (world-class), Mazuelo and Garnacha, as well as the lush, ripe Viña El Olivo, among the first Rioja wines to be described as “modern”.

Head to hilltop Laguardia for lunch at Amelibia, a respite of light-touch Riojan cooking, artisan wine and warm service. A walking tour of Laguardia’s enchanting streets and viewpoints after lunch helps to bajar la comida. Back in Haro, dine in the hotel’s product-forward restaurant, where you can have dishes created by the Echapresto brothers of Venta Moncalvillo (2 Michelin stars) fame and rare bottles of Rioja from an overflowing cellar.

Day 4 – Focus on the Vineyards

Start your day in the Station Quarter of Haro, where classic Rioja wine was forged over a century ago. Gómez Cruzado is a small upstart here focused on a vision of fine Rioja wine that harkens back to the days when fresh, low-alcohol reds dominated the region. At the private tasting table above the barrel room, taste a selection of Gómez Cruzado wines including new-classic blends with lots of Garnacha and single-vineyard cult bottlings from the Terroir Selection. Then it’s on to the medieval village of Briones for an insider visit at Miguel Merino, one of Rioja Alta’s premier grower-producers. Miguel Jr. and his wife run this small winery, making subtle, fresh wines from a collection of top-class vineyards surrounding Briones. The drinkable Viñas Jovenes is made from young vines, while the new-old-school Reserva and Gran Reserva are approachable and age-worthy. The tiny production of Merino’s old-vine single vineyard bottlings makes a visit to the winery a chance to taste the impossible.

After a walk around Briones’s atmospheric streets, head to the mountain town of Rivas del Tereso for an essentially Riojan grilling lunch. Asador Jose Mari has spent decades mastering the art of the grill, and today it’s a destination for lovers of good eating, including local winemakers. You might start with local vegetables and sausages before lamb or beef, both of which pair impeccably with a bottle of fine Rioja. In the evening, explore the tapas scene of Haro. Your hotel features a superb wine bar with an outdoor terrace and tapas, while just around the corner lies Roots, the town’s top wine bar serving light fare and glasses of artisan Rioja. The old town of Haro has a lively scene, so all you have to do is stroll to find another bite or glass.

Day 5 – Classic Rioja and Classy San Sebastián

A last hurrah for breakfast in Rioja. The Station Quarter’s wine bars are the place to taste Rioja at its most classic and aged. Names like La Rioja Alta, Muga and CVNE have dominated the fine wine side of Rioja for over a century, and your local expert guide will take you to taste the finest wines at the benchmarks of Haro.

Then it’s off to seaside San Sebastián, home to some of Spain’s best eating in fine dining restaurants and traditional eateries and even packed pintxos bars. In the evening, you’ll roam the old town’s bars sampling each spot’s food specialties. Pintxos bars compete to attract savvy Basques, so the eating is gourmet while still as casual and hectic as can be. Portions are small, so you can comfortably hit a few before you’re full.

Day 6 – Getaria: Coastal Wines & Seafood

A day on the coast today. Head out of the city to the rocky Cantabrian shores, starting with the dramatic cliffs of Zumaia before heading to the green hills above the fishing town of Getaria. These hills are the land of Txakoli, the bracing white wine of the Basque Country. The wine was once made at home and kept in big barrels, but today it’s a worldwide success: low alcohol, refreshing, food-friendly and made from comically unpronounceable grapes like Hondarrabi Zuri. You’ll visit an artisan winery with views of the Cantabrian Sea and taste Txakoli with local anchovies (the classic aperitif around here). Then it’s on to Getaria itself, fish central. At top fish restaurant Kaia Kaipe, the specialty is whole grilled white-fleshed delicate fish caught in the waters nearby. Of course, the main event is preceded by sea creatures large and small.

Back in San Sebastián, shop or relax or gaze at the ocean before dinner at traditional Basque icon Gandarias. Despite San Sebastián’s plethora of modern fine dining, the locals love good, straightforward food most of all. Gandarias is white tablecloths and jacketed waiters but also speed and noise and joyful eating. Basque steak, local lobster, clams and whole grilled fish abound.

Day 7 – The Tradition of Private Eating Clubs

The Basque love of food is never-ending, so it’s no surprise to learn the locals have cooking-eating-drinking clubs called sociedades gastronómicas. An insider member will take you to a private society today for an intimate lunch. Head to San Sebastián’s market to source products. Then, relax glass in hand while your guide cooks, shows and explains the secrets of good Basque cooking. A multi-course lunch is everyone’s reward.

Your farewell dinner takes you into the hills above the city to one of the city’s most interesting restaurants: Zelai Txiki. Chef Juan Carlos Caro is an opinionated talent, serving product-focused tasting menus (for those who want them) and an extensive à la carte menu of honest dishes. This is fine cuisine at its Basque best: great presentation, service, wine and quality without pretension or tricks. This is where the locals come for a reason.

Day 8 – Departure

Private transfer to the San Sebastián or Bilbao airport for departure.


WHERE YOU’LL STAY

The Artist

Bilbao’s great luxury hotel, 5-star The Artist offers an unbeatable location just across from the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum. Luxuriously furnished rooms with Philippe Stark design offer direct views of the museum, and the rooftop puts you above the psychedelic structure. Multiple dining options in the museum and the varied dining and shopping options of central Bilbao near the hotel make this a perfect choice in the city.

Hotel Palacio De Los Ángeles

Located in the heart of wine capital Haro’s old town, Palacio de los Ángeles is a true 5-star getaway in Rioja. A grand converted palace has been outfitted with luxury and taste. The rooms are luminous and showcase the historic stone walls of the building. You have everything you need here: cosy public areas, an on-site restaurant run by the team from two Michelin star Venta Moncalvillo, an outdoor pool area and a luxurious spa. The wineries and restaurants of Haro are just a few minutes away, making this a perfect base for exploring Rioja.

Villa Favorita

The last of the townhouses that once lined San Sebastián’s La Concha beach, Villa Favorita has been restored as a stunning boutique hotel. Luxurious materials and design permeate the rooms and the public spaces, many of which have direct views of the ocean. No detail has been neglected, from the parquet floors to the tasteful furnishings. The location is unbeatable, providing direct access to the beach and the heart of the city.


WHERE YOU’LL GO

THE BASQUE COUNTRY

When it comes to food, the Basque Country seems to have it all. There are scores of Michelin Star restaurants, born from the Basque response to France’s nouvelle cuisine in the 1970s. The culture of culinary innovation has spread across Spain since then, but the Basque Country is still the heart of modern Spanish food. All of that creativity had to come from somewhere, though, and here it is the richness of ingredients and recipes. The Basque countryside offers wild-caught Atlantic fish, foraged mushrooms, dry-aged beef, sheep’s milk cheese, fresh vegetables, and artisan cider and Txakolí, the local white wine. 

The quality ingredients are everywhere here, not just in the manicured dining rooms of haute cuisine restaurants. Pintxos bars (Basque tapas bars) compete to have the best and most creative inventions. Seaside restaurants serve the best grilled fish you’ll ever have, and in the hamlets of the countryside, simple recipes shine with the flavors of the hills. Food is so central to Basque life that many Basques, traditionally but no longer only men, form cooking clubs (txokos) where members use professional kitchens to cook for each other and their friends. Even economical midday menus in the cities will surprise you with the purity of flavor in their dishes. 

You can eat all the Michelin star meals you could want in the Basque Country. But trust me, you won’t want many because the food everywhere you go is so good. I say eat like the Basques do: traditional food made with great products sourced and produced in Euskadi, in bars and restaurants and cooking clubs. Then you’ll understand what all the fuss has been about.

BILBAO

The Guggenheim Museum, erected on Bilbao’s redeveloped riverfront where shipbuilding instalations once stood, is the symbol of Bilbao’s success. While San Sebastián has deep connections to France, Bilbao is Basque and proud. Impeccable 19th-century construction from its glory days as the heart of Basque shipping sit next to the glimmering hotels, apartments, and corporate headquarters that remind you that you are in the economic center of the region. You’ll find pintxos here, as in San Sebastián, but with a more local feel. From decades-old eateries overlooking the city to creative cuisine at seafood-specialized Mina and Nerua restaurants, Bilbao is the perfect place to see and feel the identity of today’s Basque Country.

RIOJA

Rioja feels a world apart from the nearby Basque Country. The towns and villages are dominated by ancient castles, churches and monasteries, but most of all by wineries. Vineyards are everywhere, but the wineries have always been in town in the Rioja. In honorary wine capital Haro, the Station Quarter is full of them, their famous names and tasting rooms beckoning. 

The mountains protecting Rioja to the north and the south make this region a wine sanctuary. Great wine is everywhere: at the pintxos bars of Haro and Logroño, the traditional restaurants in Laguardia and Casalarreina, and the cavernous cellars of Michelin-star restaurants. The food ranges from rustic to refined, but is consistently local, seasonal, and high-quality. 

Above all, Rioja is beautiful. Perfectly preserved medieval villages, rolling hills covered in vines whose leaves paint them in jewel tones every fall, sprawling old wineries full of ancient barrels next to psychedelic new complexes. You could come here just to look at it all, but thankfully the wine is as spectacular and diverse as the country itself.

THE WINES OF RIOJA

There is a well-established style of classic Rioja: savory, age-worthy reds dominated by Tempranillo but nearly always with small amounts of Graciano, Mazuelo, Garnacha, or even white Viura. These wines eschew single plots, instead opting to blend vineyards and even bring specific varieties from far-flung corners of the Rioja. Old American oak is often preferred to French. Many Riojas carry age certifications instead of varieties or vineyards. Crianzas are entry-level barrel-aged wines that can be very serious and great value. Reservas must have more bottle-aging than crianzas, and often age longer in oak as well. The reserva category includes some of the greatest wines in Rioja, for more is not always better when it comes to oak. Finally, the gran reservas spend at least two years in oak, often much, much more. These are the top of the classic categories, and many producers reserve their best plots for gran reservas and only produce them in exceptional vintages. Most classic Riojas can age for years, but gran reservas are built for the long haul, and the best examples will likely outlive the winemaker and the buyer.

Many quality Rioja producers have moved away from this aging-based system or changed their methods to produce a different sort of wine. Starting in the 1990s, French oak, often new, became popular among the top winemakers in Rioja. Producers like Remírez de Ganuza, Artadi, and Contador showed that French oak can make Riojas that match or even surpass those made in the old way. Single-plot wines have risen with the fortunes of new producers, many of them varietal wines of Tempranillo. New regulations allowing subregion and village labelling have firmly split Rioja producers: some have stuck with the old ways, while others have done their best Burgundy impression, producing separate wines from each distinct plot and aiming for pure terroir expression rather than consistent blends. The good news for wine lovers is that Rioja now has more diversity of fine reds than at any time in recent memory.

No wine region in Spain stands still these days, and Rioja has its own rebels and innovators pushing the boundaries. Small producers have found plots of old vines all over the Rioja, from the foot of the mountains in the Northwest to Rioja Oriental in the far east. These often contain field blends, and some producers are even taking advantage of quality Graciano, Mazuelo, and Garnacha vineyards to make varietal wines. In garage wineries you’ll see French oak, but also massive oak foudres, cement vats and amphoras. In Rioja Alavesa producers are returning to the tradition of carbonic maceration of whole bunches, the Riojan version of Beaujolais nouveau. Clarete can even be found, a full-bodied rosé style made from a blend of red and white grapes. Innovation is all around, and should continue to bring great new wines onto the market in the years to come.

Rioja means red to many people, but white Rioja is far from an afterthought. There is a classic style of white Rioja that once had many examples but today is mostly synonymous with one name: Viña Tondonia. Stubbornly traditional producer López de Heredia ages this white wine for years in American oak and years more in bottle before release: the Gran Reserva release can be over 20 years old before it appears on shelves. This kind of white Rioja is a strong contender for the most age-worthy dry white wine in the world: bottles over 40 years old can be not only drinkable, but still feel young!

Viura, the main white Rioja grape, can produce wonderfully subtle wines when treated with care. Many wineries new and old have begun to focus on white wines as well-made examples have led the way. Some are made to be drunk young, while others follow the footsteps of Tondonia and age for years. Other grapes are appearing as well, with Garnacha Blanca, Malvasia, and recent mutation Tempranillo Blanco showing up in blends and varietal wines. One small producer makes no fewer than six different white Riojas! This is a category to watch.


WHAT’S INCLUDED

  • 7 nights hotel, double occupancy, breakfast daily, expert private guides, private tours, premium tastings at wineries, restaurant concierge service and all reservations, private luxury transport

NOT INCLUDED

  • flights to/from Spain or Portugal, gratuities to guides and drivers, travel insurance (recommended)

EPICUREAN WAYS ADVANTAGE

We pride ourselves on our discerning taste in hotels, a concierge approach to restaurants for you, and our long experience in the world of wine enabling us to select wineries worth visiting and arrange premium tastings at each winery.

You will be accompanied by a driver-guide during your wine touring. Your visits and tastings will be private and with the winemaker, a family member or an expert who knows the winery and the wines well. We work with the wineries to make sure that you taste the best and most representative wines during each visit. It is sometimes possible to arrange extended tastings that include old vintages or rare wines. We have an extensive group of wineries whose owners we know and with whom we work regularly, so we can guarantee high-level visits even if a winery has to be substituted. If you have an interest in visiting a particular producer please let us know.

We include restaurant concierge service as part of your trip. Note that our restaurant suggestions are just that–suggestions. Places we love, places to go back to time after time. We recommend these places after years of experience eating in Spain and Portugal together with frequent research and input from our local partners. We aspire to guide your choices with information on the styles of cuisine and restaurants; the choice on where to eat is yours based on your preferences and desires.

We have extensive experience with hotels ranging from 5-star luxury properties to private boutique hotels. Let us know your preferences and we will tailor the hotel choices for you.

All tours, experiences and hotels are subject to availability and will be confirmed upon booking the trip.

TRIP PRICES

Note that we can customize this trip for you. Add days in your arrival or departure city or in other locations or make changes to the experiences, winery visits, restaurants, or hotels included in the trip. Whatever it is, we’re here to work with you. Once you’re happy with the trip plan and have some idea of your dates we will send you the price.