GALICIA WINE TOUR: FINE WINES IN GREEN SPAIN
Santiago de Compostela → Rías Baixas → Ribeiro→ Ribeira Sacra→ Valdeorras
☾ 6 Nights
TRIP OVERVIEW
Galicia is the future. The rural green hills and coastal villages of Galicia produce the widest variety of world-class wines anywhere in Iberia. The bright Albariño whites of the Rías Baixas, the rich white blends of Ribeiro, red Ribeira Sacra wines from near-vertical vineyards and ethereal Godello from Valdeorras–all have claimed global attention for their quality, age-worthiness and perfect pairing with many cuisines. It’s been a surprise to many people that these wines from Spain’s most isolated region have risen so high so quickly from unknowns 30 years ago to darlings today. This trip will be a masterclass in the wines of these four Galician regions and a relaxing rural escape. As you visit the wineries you’ll be immersed in the landscapes of green Spain’s coast and hilly interior. The restaurants introduce you to current Galician cuisine varying from the most traditional inland cuisine to light contemporary fare.
GALICIA WINE TOUR: FINE WINES IN GREEN SPAIN
Day 1 – Santiago de Compostela
Start your trip with a warmup in grand Santiago de Compostela, the monumental city that draws pilgrims trekking the Camino from around the world. A welcome dinner at Abastos 2.0 tucked inside the market is a Galician seafood feast. Depending on the day you might pile plates of octopus, scallops and oysters, razor clams and grilled fish, and maybe even goose barnacles.
Day 2 – Grand Albariño Country
Head from Santiago to the Rías Baixas: it’s time for some wine titans today. Visits to two pazos (Galician small palaces) that make great wine. Pazo Señorans is really lovely, an ivy-covered house with gardens and antiques and lots of good taste. Señorans makes world-class wine, liquid gold that helped convince skeptical Spaniards that Albariño could and should age. The Selección de Añada spends a decade or more aging on lees and becomes drastically more complex for it. Beg, borrow or steal your way into trying the small-batch orujo (Galician grappa) made here as it’s some of the best you’ll ever try.
Then onto Pazo Baion formerly owned by a notorious drug trafficker. Their wines are top-notch, complex Albariños.
Head to Pepe Solla’s very cool wine bar for a casual lunch. Chef Solla has two Michelin stars at Casa Solla, but his wine bar in the same building is relaxed and unpretentious. Daily specials, wines from the cellar of the fine dining restaurant and a soundtrack from Solla’s personal vinyl collection. The chef has a tendency to show up behind the bar! On the way to your hotel, stop in Combarro, where the locals built hulking stone hórreos for drying fish right over the water. Dine in at Quinta de San Amaro’s restaurant which draws savvy locals for good food and has an outdoor terrace for a relaxing evening.
Day 3 – Grower Wine & Seafood on the Coast
Visit two grower-winemakers in Rías Baixas today. Start at Santiago Roma. Roma is a passionate winemaker and has pioneered granite eggs for wine aging. Try his deeply complex Albariños. Your next visit is to Albamar, a tiny winery down a backroad. Xurxo Alba (winemaker and face of the place) makes low intervention Albariños from a patchwork of plots. His wines have become cult wines both in Spain and abroad. Come discover why.
Lunch at D’Berto, a seafood pilgrimage site. This unassuming restaurant is known to lovers of bivalves and crustaceans as one of the best places in Spain to eat fresh seafood. Berto himself takes the role of host and his advice on what to order is worth following. Crabs and lobsters are specialties, alongside all kinds of shellfish and Berto’s handpicked fish and seafood. The extensive, thorough and carefully curated wine list features, among other treasures, sparkling Albariño, dozens and dozens of Champagnes, top-class Albariños from most every producer in Rías Baixas and the finest whites from Galicia vineyards in Ribeiro and Valdeorras. This is a place to unwind and celebrate seafood and wine in tandem.
Just down the road from your hotel, a light dinner on the terrace of countryside Lagüiña Lieux-dit. This gourmet furancho serves local tapas dishes alongside fresh-caught seafood to accompany artisan wines from Galicia and all over the world.
Day 4 – Heading Inland: Ribeiro & Ribeira Sacra
Time for inland Galicia, where the hills grow steeper and green river valleys make fine wine. Start at Coto de Gomariz in Ribeiro for an extended tasting of complex white blends. Ribeiro has been known for its white wines for centuries, and today local bottles are sought-after by sommeliers and enthusiasts. For lunch, head into inland Galician city Ourense to discover the bustling tapas bars that line the streets and squares of the city center. Ourense is known for octopus, empanada and other classic Galician dishes which pair perfectly with a glass of Ribeiro wine. Then it’s on to the land of heroic viticulture in Ribeira Sacra. The near-vertical vineyards on the riverbanks here make red Mencías of ethereal beauty. At Abadía da Cova you’ll get your first views over the vineyards from the hilltop winery. Taste a selection of pioneering Ribeira Sacra wines. Dinner will take you down the road to a rambling Galician country house that’s home to a superb grilling restaurant, Tres Portas. Specialties include daily fish and seafood from the coast and local meat coming from trusted producers. Tres Portas sources artisan wines from Galician producers to serve by the bottle and glass.
Day 5 – Red Wine in Ribeira Sacra
Today is the day for a deep dive into the wines and varied landscapes of Ribeira Sacra. Start with a boat cruise on the Sil River for dramatic views of the terrain. Back on land, taste historic wines at Ponte da Boga, including rare local varieties like Brancellao and Merenzao. On to elite winery Adega Algueira, home to some of the best views in Ribeira Sacra and some of the areas finest wines. Taste subtle wines made from Mencía as well as local varieties.
For lunch, fine dining in Ribeira Sacra at Vértigo (1 Michelin star). This restaurant (housed in the hilltop Regina Viarum winery) uses Galician products to prepare tasting menus that focus on both the coastal (crab, tuna, scallop) and the interior (Galician beef, local produce). Relax at your hotel before joining your guide in the nearby town of Monforte de Lemos. Try local tapas and glasses of hyper-local grower wines for a light dinner.
Day 6 – Godello May Be Spain’s Best Grape
The most inland of Galician wine regions, Valdeorras is the source of Spain’s best white wines made from the Godello grape. Start at family-run Valdesil where you’ll taste a variety of Godellos, including from some of the oldest vines in Valdeorras. Then, a true world-class winery awaits at Rafael Palacios. Rafael has done more than anyone to help Valdeorras reach its well-deserved cult status. His single-vineyard bottlings like Sorte O Soro and Sorte Antiga have achieved stratospheric acclaim. Refresh the energies during lunch with a view at Cova da Xabreira in Valdeorras. Traditional tapas and hearty plates are on the menu. Back in Ribeira Sacra, a food and wine sendoff at Berso. Dine on produce from the restaurant’s garden, tapas, seafood and steak in the comfortable dining room or on the outdoor terrace.
Day 7 – Departure
Transfer to Santiago de Compostela for your departure.
WHERE YOU’LL STAY
Parador de Santiago de Compostela
The grand hotel of historic Santiago, the 5-star Parador occupies the former Royal Hospital of the Catholic Kings right next to the Cathedral, and is considered the oldest hotel in Spain. Inside, classic luxury that transports you back in time.
Quinta de San Amaro
Quinta de San Amaro is a beautiful countryside hotel right in the heart of Rías Baixas wine country. Peaceful and cozy, it's the kind of place that makes you want to stay as long as possible. The rooms are beautifully furnished and luxurious, and the public areas are full of spots to enjoy a glass of wine and relax. The quinta is also home to one of the area's best restaurants, serving elegant Galician dishes and with a wine list featuring excellent wines from Rías Baixas and other Galician regions.
Áurea Palacio de Sober
A boutique hotel in the tranquil village of Sober, Áurea Palacio de Sober offers a luxurious stay in the heart of Ribeira Sacra. The restored stone palace features charming light-filled rooms, atmospheric public areas and manicured gardens. Scenic wineries and dining options in the Ribeira Sacra region are just down the road, making this an ideal hotel for wine touring.
WHERE YOU’LL GO
GALICIA
The sun is noticeably weaker once you cross the mountains that separate Spain’s greenest corner from the bleached expanse that is the rest of the country. The buildings are always forming shadows that leave you cold even on warm days and the adapted locals can always be seen with a jacket nearby if out for more than a brief jaunt. You can feel winter coming here and get the sense that it is always coming, even at high noon. The covered walkways, stone arches over stone sidewalks, will soon beckon to native and pilgrim alike, but when the sun shines the terraces are teeming with life and no one wants to be inside.
Galicia is made of stone, physically and spiritually. You can see it in people’s eyes, their skin. They’ve been hewn from it, battered against the cold stone faces of the coastal cliffs, hauled boulders on their backs to clear their fields, carved it into blocks and tiles and even wheels. Like granite they’re slow to warm but once they do they stay that way, radiating intense energy that can fill a room. This is an old people, defined most of all by their ability to endure, to persist. The cities and towns and villages and pazos and walls are a testament to thousands of years of stubbornness.
The color that dominates the grey of stone is green. Everything is growing everywhere. Grass with exploding patches of clover. Trees with twisted arms covered in ivy and creepers. Thick underbrush with layers upon layers of saplings and bushes and vines and little plants with no name except in the old tongue. Every Gallego seems to need a stone house and a little piece of green land, a direct connection to the earth and its fertility. The little patches of greenery and the thick forests of the hills and mountains are the most noticeable differences from the rest of Spain, but they also speak to the character of the people. The Gallego has a fundamental mistrust of modernity and sophistication that stems from and manifests through their connection to the land. The fields and streams of the ancestral village are the source of truth and morality here. The great cities of Galicia have risen up with industry and culture, but the heart of each citizen lives in the forest with the pagan deities whose names are lost to time but whose significance has never waned.
GALICIAN CUISINE
Galician cuisine is famous for its seafood. Less well known are the inland dishes using beef, pork, octopus and garden produce. The pride of Galicia is pulpo, octopus caught laboriously in the rocky inlets of the coast but served all over the region, commonly in thin slices on a wooden plate and dusted with Spanish paprika. The coastal towns and cities seem to overflow with seafood that anywhere else would be reserved for the finest restaurants: white and blue fish perfect for grilling or baking; clams and mussels and a galaxy of shellfish with no real English translations; crabs and shrimp and lobsters and delicacies like percebes, alien-looking goose barnacles beloved by locals and visitors. The countryside cooking of Galicia reveres the pig and the cow, featuring sausages and hams and cheeses that change from village to village. The soups and stews of Galician home cooking are hearty and often use local greens and potatoes. It's a totally different cuisine from anywhere else in Spain, perhaps finding more kinship with the tables of northern Portugal, but Galicia is certainly among the best places in Spain to eat great food.
Galician cuisine combines the bounty of its extensive Atlantic coastline with the hearty flavors of the countryside and the mountains. To go with a distinct cuisine, you need distinct wines, and Galicia has an abundance of unique wine. The coastal areas of the Rías Baixas are home to the Albariño grape, the iconic Galician white and frequent companion of local seafood. The best Galician Albariños are among the greatest white wines available anywhere, with depth, complexity, and the potential to age for years in bottle. The inland regions of Galicia, less known than the coast, are home to several wine regions making truly stunning wines today. Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras, and Bierzo form a trio of regions where the red Mencía and white Godello grapes dominate and produce widely varying styles of wine that transmit soil and geography into the glass. The rise of these regions has put Galicia on the global wine map for more than Albariño. Even lesser known Ribeiro, with its rich variety of indigenous grapes, has become a source of excitement. The subtlety of Galician wines is refreshing, but the quality speaks for itself. Galician wines are here to stay among Spanish wine royalty.
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Santiago de Compostela is the cultural, political and spiritual heart of Galicia. Santiago became the endpoint of one of Europe’s main pilgrimage routes (The Camino, or Way of St. James) in the 9th century. The shrine of Santiago is the Cathedral, begun in the 11th century. Today the city’s Old Town is a Unesco World Heritage Site and home to an amazing array of medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture.
RÍAS BAIXAS
Rías Baixas is the most famous wine region in Galicia, though it is often known simply by its characteristic grape: Albariño. Rías are inlets of the Atlantic similar to fjords. They give the vineyards a very strong Atlantic influence, and the humidity means the vines must be trained on high trellises to prevent mildew. Soils in the heart of Rías Baixas are granitic. Nearly all wine here is white and dominated by Albariño. These wines are fresh with lively acidity that makes them the perfect pairing with the local seafood-dominated cuisine.
RIBEIRO
Ribeiro lies upriver from the Rías Baixas, a very fertile area with green hills and rivers crisscrossing the landscape where wine has been made for hundreds of years. Ribeiro produces excellent white wines mainly from Treixadura, typically blended with Loureira, Albariño, Godello, or other indigenous varieties. About 10 percent of Ribeiro is red, made from the indigenous Souson and Brancellao grapes, among others, and the reds can be extraordinarily fresh and lively. Ribeiro wine has long been popular with Galicians, but today the unique wines of Ribeiro are exciting palates further afield.
RIBEIRA SACRA
Ribeira Sacra is the most visually impressive wine region in Spain, with near-vertical vineyards sloping down the sides of several river valleys. Making wine here is extraordinarily difficult, but the resultant wines are nearly as incredible as the landscape. The poor slate and granite soils and relatively Atlantic climate of Ribeira Sacra produce extremely elegant, subtle reds from the Mencía grape, as well as reds from other indigenous grapes and occasional white wines. Ribeira Sacra has long been unknown outside of Galicia, but the wines from this remote area are among Galicia's most sought-after.
VALDEORRAS
Valdeorras, up river from Ribeira Sacra in the deepest interior reaches of Galicia, is a region synonymous with the white grape Godello and slate soils. It’s here that Godello has found its most acclaimed expression, deep and mineral and capable of holding its own against the world’s finest whites. Slate soils, best known in Spain for their prevalence in the Priorat, are the source of many of the finest Valdeorras wines. Like Ribeira Sacra, the vineyards of Valdeorras slope down in river valleys, though not at the same impossible angles as in Ribeira Sacra. The uncommon red wines of Valdeorras usually use Mencía, and as in other areas of Galicia rare indigenous grapes are being used more and more frequently.
WHAT’S INCLUDED
6 nights hotel, double occupancy, breakfast daily, expert private guides, private tours, premium tastings at wineries, restaurant concierge service and all reservations, private luxury transport
NOT INCLUDED
flights to/from Spain or Portugal, gratuities to guides and drivers, extras in hotels, travel insurance (recommended)
EPICUREAN WAYS ADVANTAGE
We pride ourselves on our discerning taste in hotels, a concierge approach to restaurants for you, and our long experience in the world of wine enabling us to select wineries worth visiting and arrange premium tastings at each winery.
You will be accompanied by a driver-guide during your wine touring. Your visits and tastings will be private and with the winemaker, a family member or an expert who knows the winery and the wines well. We work with the wineries to make sure that you taste the best and most representative wines during each visit. It is sometimes possible to arrange extended tastings that include old vintages or rare wines. We have an extensive group of wineries whose owners we know and with whom we work regularly, so we can guarantee high-level visits even if a winery has to be substituted. If you have an interest in visiting a particular producer please let us know.
We include restaurant concierge service as part of your trip. Note that our restaurant suggestions are just that–suggestions. Places we love, places to go back to time after time. We recommend these places after years of experience eating in Spain and Portugal together with frequent research and input from our local partners. We aspire to guide your choices with information on the styles of cuisine and restaurants; the choice on where to eat is yours based on your preferences and desires.
We have extensive experience with hotels ranging from 5-star luxury properties to private boutique hotels. Let us know your preferences and we will tailor the hotel choices for you.
All tours, experiences and hotels are subject to availability and will be confirmed upon booking the trip.
TRIP PRICES
Note that we can customize this trip for you. Add days in your arrival or departure city or in other locations or make changes to the experiences, winery visits, restaurants, or hotels included in the trip. Whatever it is, we’re here to work with you. Once you’re happy with the trip plan and have some idea of your dates we will send you the price.
