The Wines of Andalusia: Jerez, Montilla & Ronda Trip

This is a trip that will immerse you in the traditional wines of Andalusia. That means sherry from Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, sherry-style wines from Córdoba’s Montilla-Moriles region and the wines of the picturesque white town of Ronda. From the coastal city of Cádiz explore the sherry capitals of Jerez and Sanlúcar. You’ll have a day visiting wineries and tasting the unique southern Spanish wines near the stunning hilltop village of Ronda. Then it’s on to Montilla-Moriles, the wine region outside of Córdoba with a long tradition of producing fine sherry-style wines and now white wines from Pedro Ximénez. In Córdoba your last dinner will be at Noor Restaurant (3 Michelin stars). During the trip you will enjoy wine tastings and wine-pairing lunches, taste old sherries in historic wineries, stop in at traditional tabancos (tapas bars) in Cádiz, pair the Sanlúcar langostinos with manzanilla and visit the Mezquita and the characteristic patios in Córdoba.

Trip At A Glance

8 Days / 7 Nights

Days 1 - 4 in Cádiz

Start your journey in coastal Cádiz, where you’ll tour the city and discover its hidden corners. A tasting with a local wine expert will kick-start your journey into the world of sherry. Start your wine touring with a day in coastal Sanlúcar, where you’ll immerse yourself in the world of manzanilla sherry, taste the famous langostinos de Sanlúcar and have a wine-pairing lunch. Next head to Jerez de la Frontera, the center of sherry production, where you’ll visit producers of rare old sherries and tasting some of the best examples on the market today.

Day 5 in Ronda

Visit wineries and then disconnect in hilltop Ronda, a stunning village filled with history and atmosphere and offering views over the countryside. Dine at Bardal, one of southern Spain’s greatest restaurants, or at a casual wine bar across the gorge from your hotel.

Days 6 - 7 in Córdoba & Montilla-Moriles

Discover sherry’s sister region of Montilla-Moriles, where the native Pedro Ximénez grape yields dry and sweet sherry-style wines with their own regional character. Then it’s on to one-time Moorish capital Córdoba, where you’ll discover the city’s rich history, have a wine-pairing lunch in a traditional taberna and enjoy dinner at Noor, the city’s most acclaimed restaurant where Moorish culinary influences are brought to the 21st century.

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The Wines of Andalusia: Jerez, Montilla & Ronda Trip

Days 1 - 4 in Cádiz

Day 1 - Welcome to Cádiz

Arrive in Cádiz
Walking tour & market visit
Dinner at El Anteojo Tapas Bar-Restaurant
Overnight Cádiz

Andalusia

Covering most of the southern part of Spain, Andalusia holds a charm that no other Spanish region can claim. It is, after all, the ancestral home of so many Spanish images–flamenco, Andalusian horses, bullfighting, sherry and tapas like pescaíto frito, the fresh quick-fried fish so ubiquitous in the South. Even Spaniards tend to paint Andalusia as a single culture and destination, but in truth it’s perhaps the most varied part of the country.

The wild coast of Huelva and Cádiz, with windswept beach bars and fresh seafood. The classic inland Andalusian cities of Sevilla, Jerez, and Córdoba, which are sisters but differ so much in their culture, food, history, and atmosphere. The mountain hideaway of Granada, the coastal metropolis of Málaga, the white villages of the mountains. To those with some experience in other parts of Spain, coming into contact with deep Andalusia is a revelation, like discovering a new world that begins south of Madrid.

Cádiz

The city of Cádiz lies on the end of an island extending into the Atlantic Bay of Cádiz, leaving the beautiful historic center with water on three sides. Here you will find colonial-style buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries, many built after the city was damaged by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755 and during its days as the center of trade with the overseas Spanish Empire. The small beach of La Caleta in the city center has stood in for Havana in films. Despite its historic architecture, Cádiz is a dense, living city with lively bars and restaurants extending through its old quarter and down along its long, sandy beaches. It’s the perfect place to get away from the heat of summer and the cold of winter, a world of its own that looks out onto the Atlantic rather than towards Madrid.

Cuisine in Cádiz

Cádiz is unspoiled Andalucía, and nowhere is this more apparent than the cuisine, the bars, and the restaurants of the province. Markets and specialty shops offer a dizzying array of local, seasonal products, along with extensive advice about the arcane aspects of cazón en adobo, atún encebollado, or the plato estrella, berza gaditana. Ultramarinos and food stores that double as bars offer local charcuterie and cheese, from exquisite mojama (air-dried and slated bluefin tuna) to Payoyo cheese and chicharrones especiales (cured pork belly), accompanied by sherry, local still wines, or the ever-present cañas of ice-cold Cruzcampo beer. The tapas bars are as varied as they are numerous: freidurias that sell pescadito frito (fried fish) in paper cones, fisherman’s bars serving whatever they received that morning from the day’s catch, roadside ventas offering country menus from Retinto beef to snails and wild boar, institutions with classic photos on the walls, uniformed waiters, and menus appealing every possible desire you could have. Restaurants with paper tablecloths clothespinned to metal tables that serve better seafood than can be found in whole cities. Innovative spots where young chefs or wise veterans transcend the traditions to breathe new life into the splendid ingredients. Aponiente’s Ángel Leon redefining the entire meaning of seafood without losing sight of the terroir. Even just scratching the surface, Cádiz is a must-taste for anyone who loves good eating.

Walking Tour and Market Visit

Enjoy a private walking tour of the old town of Cadiz, learning about the city’s growth as Spain’s port to the Americas in the 18th century and its unique architecture and geography. Visit a traditional sherry tavern–Taberna La Manzanilla– and the market in Cádiz–in our opinion one of Spain’s best markets, and certainly unique in that the market is ringed with eating stalls and small shops stocked with local charcuterie, cheese and wine. Your guide will set you up with some tapas and wine in the market.

Taberna La Manzanilla

Taberna La Manzanilla is a unique bar where sherry ages in huge barrels behind the bar and the decor of old bottles and bullfighting posters will transport you back in time. Owner Pepe carefully curates and ages manzanilla (dry sherry) from Sanlúcar in his private cellar.

Taberna La Manzanilla was founded in the 1930s as the Cádiz outpost of a manzanilla bodega from Sanlúcar de Barrameda. At first glance, it’s hard to identify any changes since then. Ancient sherry bottles and promotional items cover the walls and fill glass cases, accompanied by well-aged bullfighting posters. The main attraction, however, is the pile of barrels behind the bar. Today La Manzanilla serves exclusively sherry aged in their own barrels, which have never been emptied since the founding of the taberna. Each glass is served with exactly two stuffed olives, and the bill is tracked in chalk on the dark wooden bar. Traditionally these sherry wine bars have also sold wine straight from the barrel in bottles to go, and La Manzanilla keeps this tradition alive, with prices listed by the liter. A perfect place to enjoy a manzanilla, amontillado, or even oloroso before eating at one of the fantastic restaurant nearby.

Dinner at El Anteojo Tapas Bar-Restaurant in Cádiz

With a cozy indoor dining area and a comfortable outdoor terrace on Cádiz’s central Calle Plocia, El Anteojo is a Cádiz staple. This family-run restaurant and tapas bar serves up traditional Andalusian dishes with their own creative flair. Highlights include the top quality fresh seafood, the flavorful stews that are typical of the city, and the expertly cooked paellas with varied ingredients. Don’t miss the gambas al ajillo. Consistently excellent cuisine is the basis of El Anteojo's reputation, but the warm and fast service along with a good selection of wines by the glass make it one of the best bets in the city.

Day 2 - Wine and Cuisine in Cádiz

Free day in Cádiz
Evening Cádiz wine tasting
Dinner at Casa Lazo Restaurant
Overnight Cádiz

Evening Cádiz Wine Tasting

Join a local wine expert for a tasting of some of the exciting white wines from sherry country. The Palomino grape planted in chalky soils that is used to make sherry has proven itself capable of making fascinating white wines. A new generation of talented winemakers has proven this with their limited-edition releases that have become cult wines around the world. These pure expressions of the terroir of Jerez and its surroundings are the perfect introduction to the world of sherry. You’ll taste some of the best examples, including so-called vinos de pasto, white wines aged in barrel with the layer of flor yeast that defines fino and manzanilla sherry.

Dinner at Casa Lazo Restaurant

A wood-paneled storefront with glass displays full of gourmet products hides behind it a tapas bar and restaurant serving the highest quality products: Casa Lazo. Casa Lazo began as a store selling Iberian ham and charcuterie before becoming the local star eatery it is today. Iberian pork is a key attraction here, in the form of top jamón ibérico and other cured meats as well as fresh cuts cooked impeccably. But you’ll find a great selection of other products here, from traditional tapas to selected beef and lamb from the best producers in Spain to local fish and shellfish, including bluefin tuna from the almadrabas of the Cádiz coast. Don’t miss the wine list, written in chalk behind the bar and featuring numerous fine wines from Spain’s great regions.

Day 3 - Sanlúcar Manzanilla & Wine-Pairing

Travel to Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Cota 45 winery visit
Bodegas Alonso winery visit
Sherry wine-pairing lunch at El Espejo restaurant
Evening ultramarinos tapas bars on your own in Cádiz
Overnight Cádiz

Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Where the Guadalquivir River, once the trade waterway to the Spanish overseas Empire, empties into the Atlantic lies Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a surprising and enchanting food and wine destination and Spain’s Gastronomic Capital in 2022. Forming one corner of the Sherry triangle, this riverfront town is best known in Spain as the home of manzanilla sherry, a pale colored, fresh, salty even, style of sherry wine. The Guadalquivir River delta gives rise to Sanlúcar’s second claim to fame, after manzanilla– the langostino de Sanlúcar, a delicious prawn that thrives in the brackish waters off the coast here. This single ingredient rises above the rest in the restaurants of Sanlúcar. But in fact all of the readily available fresh seafood coming daily into Sanlúcar pairs extremely well with the light manzanilla made here.

Sanlúcar has emerged as the center of a new wine movement in sherry country. Using the sames grapes grown throughout the Sherry Triangle–palomino, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel– the “new” winemakers are focused on single vineyard wines and instead of fortified sherry-style wines they are making dry, unfortified white wines. Many of the small growers are in or around Sanlúcar, keeping the wine culture strong and providing fertile ground for young innovators to create new projects.

Cota 45 Winery Visit

Ramiro Ibáñez, the man behind Cota 45, has done more to bring about the current renaissance than almost anyone. A soft-spoken, precise enologist with the soul of a historian, Ramiro began as a consulting winemaker for small wineries in the Jerez area before embarking on his own winemaking projects. A passion for the quality of old wines and a penchant for old books have helped Ramiro, often accompanied by fellow winemaker Willy Pérez, redefine the fine wine scene in the Sherry triangle. The ideas of Ramiro have now spread to most of the small wineries in the area and many of the great houses who would once have scoffed.

What is so revolutionary about Ramiro’s vision? He’s put the focus back on vineyard work in an area where large producers often view grapes as less important than aging. To do this, he’s made wines that are not fortified or aged in a solera, a type of fine white vintage wine that’s come to be called vino de pasto. He’s resurrected forgotten grapes with names like Perruna and Uva Rey that were once considered the keys to making fine Sherry. Most of his wines aren’t even fortified, instead relying on sunning harvested grapes for a few hours when alcohol levels need to be brought up. Some of these innovations would be no surprise in other wine regions, but in an area with an established model of fortified wines aged and blended and labelled one way, Ramiro’s proof by example was a big deal. A revolution, to hear him tell it, that consists mostly of going back to how wine was made in the area a century or more ago.

Cota 45, Ramiro’s winery in riverfront Sanlúcar de Barrameda, puts the focus squarely on the vineyard plots of Sherry land. Sherry vineyards are divided into named vineyard areas, a fact known to growers and shippers but forgotten by drinkers until these names began appearing on bottles. The UBE series of wines are whites, each sporting the name of a vineyard on the label. They mostly age for a year or so in used barrels, with a bit of flor yeast. To taste them side by side is a lesson in the effects of microclimates and wind and exposure, for two wines made from a mile apart can taste as different as if they were from different countries. The plots nearer Sanlúcar, and thus the cooling breezes of the Atlantic, show more salty, fresh character while those in the hot country around Jerez have a fuller body. These whites are a kind of Rosetta Stone for the new world of Sherry.

Not to be missed are Ramiro’s other wines. Agostado is a sort of old-school vintage Palo Cortado, with rare grapes giving it a characteristic body. Pandorga names a pair of sweet wines made in tiny quantities from Pedro Ximenez and Tintilla de Rota respectively, fresh and concentrated and unlike anything else made today. Of course, Ramiro is known to many in Spain as the eternal companion of camera magnet Willy Pérez, with the two giving many seminal talks on Andalusian wine and co-authoring a book together. Their joint project, De La Riva, takes the name of a defunct Sherry house for their collaborations. An ever-expanding line includes young and old single-vineyard Manzanillas, a dizzying range of long-aged white wines, and old rare Sherries found hidden away in wineries.

A tasting at Cota 45 is a true masterclass in the past, present and, most importantly, future of Sherry.

Bodegas Alonso Winery Visit

When a sherry winery is sold or goes out of business, the barrels full of old wine that make up the solera system don’t go away. They pass to the new owner and reappear, sometimes under a new name. Local wine experts have an encyclopedic memory for the genealogy of sherries, but in the case of Bodegas Alonso the history is simple. Pedro Romero was the king of sherry in Sanlúcar, with an empire including old soleras of the finest sherries and beautiful winery buildings to house them in. When Romero’s empire collapsed, two winemaking brothers bought the rarest old wines from Romero’s estate and the wine cellars in the center of Sanlúcar and created Bodegas Alonso. The bottlings from these centenarian soleras form the core of Bodegas Alonso’s world-class sherries, joined by manzanilla and other younger wines made from their own vineyards. Very old wines and exceptional younger wines make Alonso the stars of sherry in Sanlúcar today.

Lunch at El Espejo Restaurant

Tucked away in the former stables of an atmospheric converted Sanlúcar palace, (the present-day Hotel Posada del Palacio), El Espejo is the most exciting restaurant in Sanlúcar. The Tallafigo brothers, chef and sommelier, are two young talents from this coastal town who have created a temple to good eating and drinking. The menu is creative but grounded, based on carefully sourced and prepared local products. Chef Tallafigo makes particularly fine use of local vegetables from the navazos around Sanlúcar, coastal farms where vegetables are grown in sand and watered with partially salty water. Creativity and tradition come together across timeless Sanlúcar dishes. A unique menu requires creative work in the wine department, and El Espejo delivers. The wine list highlights exciting producers of sherry and still and sparkling wines from Sanlúcar and the surrounding areas, including many of the local whites known as vinos de pasto (unfortified white wines). These wines, along with some of the most exciting artisan wines from other corners of the country, make for a perfect match with the subtle flavors of the dishes. The atmosphere, staff, food and drink come together to make a meal at El Espejo one of the best in the whole area. This is a restaurant that should be on everyone's radar.

Evening Ultramarinos in Cádiz on your Own

The ultramarinos is a kind of tapas bar deeply associated with the city of Cádiz. These bars evolved from dry goods stores that traded in products that came and went on ships from the port of Cádiz. Today they serve quality cold and cured tapas like charcuterie, local cheese, cured and canned fish alongside glasses of wine or sherry or ice-cold Spanish beer. They’re popular spots before dinner for a drink and a bite, but by hopping from place to place you can make a light dinner. Some also have some cooked dishes available. Below are some recommended ultramarinos.

La Cepa Gallega

La Cepa Gallega was a true Cádiz ultramarinos, a trader of products with the ships coming and going from the new world of Cádiz’s port at the end of the 19th century. As shipping activity declined, the owners focused on selling gourmet products as a store and bar. In 2018 the bar was reopened under new ownership while maintaining the offerings, decor, and even employees of this century-old gem. The interior is filled with wine bottles and character, while the outdoor terrace offers barrel tables and the atmosphere of Calle Plocia, a bustling tapas area. Great wine and sherry by the glass attracts a loyal clientele who pair their drinks with deli papers covered in chicharrones, jamón ibérico, mojama, and other delicacies. Owner and wine aficionado Bernardo, who reopened this jewel after being a loyal customer himself, is as passionate a host as you could ask for, helping to guide each and every customer.

La Sorpresa

La Sorpresa was an old ultramarinos store from the 1950s hidden on a small street near Cádiz’s central market. Today, following the original owner’s retirement it has been resurrected as one of the most popular aperitif spots in the city. Beer on tap, a wide selection of wine by the glass and bottle, and sherry from barrels helps wash down charcuterie, canned fish, and a selection of top-quality tuna from the almadrabas of the Cádiz coast. The old store counter has been preserved as a spot to buy top quality fish conservas, complete with the old mechanical scale. You can enjoy your tapas at the bar, at the classic high barrel-like tables outside, or, unusually for an ultramarinos, at proper tables in the back.

Taberna Las Banderas

One of the oldest bars in Cádiz, Las Banderas reopened in 2022 as an ultramarinos bar with a superb selection of sherry, charcuterie, cheese and gourmet canned fish. The narrow space with its high ceilings in the popular La Viña neighborhood dates to 1892, and the new owners have maintained its essence with exposed stone, colorful tiles, and a marble-topped bar that forms the nerve center of this already beloved spot. The wine list is extensive. The main attractions include a wide variety of sherries offered by the glass and the local red and white wines from small producers. You’ll also find a quality vermouth list that includes noteworthy sherry vermouths.

True to its identity as an ultramarinos, or historic Cádiz store bar, the tapas menu consists mainly of quality charcuterie, cheese, and canned or cured fish. Featured are world-class Iberian ham, award-winning Spanish cheese and canned seafood delicacies from the Spanish coasts. Las Banderas takes the concept of an ultramarinos and elevates it while maintaining the democratic and lovable nature of these Cádiz institutions. Find a table inside or outside or simply stand at the bar with a glass of wine in your hand and relax into the low-key rhythm of Cádiz.

Pelayo

Pelayo is a project created by the owner of beloved Cádiz restaurant El Terraza, a hidden gem near the Cathedral. A top-tier gourmet store and deli in front offers the best products from Cádiz province and beyond alongside an excellent selection of sherry wines. Outside, there are shelf tables where you can sample the products from the store, but the real surprise is in the back. A large collection of vintage motorcycles and memorabilia lines the walls leading to a small area featuring and tables and a bar back where savvy gaditanos meet to drink sherry and sample the daily cooked specials or deli products. You’ll often be greeted by the owner himself, a gracious host welcoming you to a bar that might otherwise feel like a private club.

El Veedor

Ultramarinos El Veedor combines an ultramarinos store and an ultramarinos bar in one small space. The walls are lined with shelves holding anything you could need from a neighborhood store: rice, bread, wine, potato chips, even cleaning products. On one side of the long, narrow bar is the deli counter, where hand-cut Iberian ham and gourmet cheese are available to go alongside cold drinks and the staples lining the walls. The rest of El Veedor is a bar, serving mainly the same cheese and charcuterie alongside Spanish pantry comfort dishes like habitas con jamón. Unlike many ultramarinos, El Veedor does have cooked dishes, most notably half a dozen styles of tortilla española. There is beer on tap, wine by the glass, and sherry served fresh from barrels at the end of the bar. Like many ultramarinos, El Veedor has unusual hours for a bar, opening early in the morning to accommodate both shopping and pre-meal tapas.

Day 4 - Sherry in Jerez de la Frontera

Transfer to Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez tour and market visit
Lustau winery visit
Fernández Gao winery visit & tasting
Lunch at Tabanco Los Monos
Overnight Cádiz

Jerez de la Frontera

Every wine enthusiast should visit Jerez for an experience unlike any other. The inland city of Cádiz province, Jerez de la Frontera is pure Andalusia, the land of sherry and flamenco and horses and bullfights. The old town mixes quiet streets and scenic plazas with bustling tapas bars and sunny restaurant terraces. Jerez feels like a small version of Sevilla as it once was, relaxed and energetic, traditional and inspired. The sherry houses, cavernous wine warehouses in the center of town, are full of shadows and history and old barrels each containing a surprising liquid jewel. To walk through one of these “cathedrals of wine” and taste straight sherry from the barrel is one of the world’s essential wine experiences. The cuisine of Jerez is a wonderfully eclectic mixture of coastal and mountain influences. The city’s proximity to the coast brings access to the best seafood from the ports of the province, while its inland location ensures a healthy dedication to meat, game, and hearty vegetable dishes. Jerez is one of the main centers of flamenco in Spain and has a large gypsy population. You can see amazing performances at the traditional tabancos (tabernas) here, but the music is also alive in the city and you can easily hear locals singing as they walk down the street. The historic buildings of the center help complete Jerez’s atmospheric feel. This is one of Andalusia’s hidden wonders, an enchanting bolthole for the discerning traveler.

Jerez is known above all of course for sherry–that distinctive Andalusian wine that ranges from bone dry finos and manzanillas to aged amontillados and olorosos to sweet wines. Sherry is the iconic wine of the Spanish south and Jerez de la Frontera is its home. The majesty of sherry becomes visible inside the bodegas of the center of Jerez. Row upon row of ancient barrels filled with everything from young fino to 100-year-old amontillado or brandy. These cavernous cellars, with high ceilings and upper windows for ventilation, are built to keep the wine cool in the torrid Jerez summers. Walking from one room to the next through patios covered in grapevines and decorated with hand-painted tiles is a journey back in time.

Sherry

Sherry is the most famous wine in Andalusia, mainland Spain’s southernmost region. It is produced in the Sherry Triangle formed by the cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María. It is a very unusual style of wine for two reasons. The first is that sherry is fortified with alcohol and bottled as a blend of vintages. The second is that sherry is not one style of wine but a family of wines ranging from dry wines like light-colored fino and full-bodied oloroso to sweet Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel. Today the wine world is held in rapture by the extraordinary dry fortified wines being made in Jerez.

Old Town Walking Tour & Market Visit

Start your day off with a walking tour of the historic city center and a visit to the impressive market filled with local produce, meats and charcuterie and, surprising for inland Jerez, glorious piles of fresh Atlantic seafood.

Lustau Winery Visit

With over a century of history making sherry, Lustau began its existence as an almacenista, a winery that aged sherry for larger wineries who bottled and exported Sherry. Over the years, Lustau has become one of the sherry elite, bottling some of the best wines available in Jerez and shipping them all over the world. Every wine Lustau produces is excellent, but they are known for their old soleras of dry sherries like amontillado and palo cortado, as well as for respecting their roots by bottling sherries from small producers in their Almacenista line. Lustau is the new face of the grandeur of Jerez.

Fernández-Gao Winery Visit

The Fernández-Gao name dates back to 1750, but the current bodega using it was founded in 2014. In Jerez it's common to use names of defunct wineries that were famous in their day for new project, giving a sense of continuity to the region. In this case, two brothers bought and restored a bodega in the center of Jerez to its former glory and have launched a line of old sherries from their family soleras. Very old Amontillado, Oloroso, and Palo Cortado are the stars of the lineup, but there is also an excellent Medium Dry and a luscious Pedro Ximenez. This is a new sherry project living up to the expectations of using a historic name by bottling superb premium sherries.

Lunch at Tabanco Los Monos

Among Jerez’s newest dining options, Tabanco Los Monos brings together the best of the city’s heritage in one place. The location is unbeatable, with the bar-restaurant located inside Fernández-Gao’s historic sherry winery. The space allows you to eat and drink either inside a former sherry winery, complete with high ceilings, whitewashed walls and exposed beams, or in the patio of the winery with grapevines growing over it, perfect for enjoying Jerez’s mild climate. The wine available by the glass, courtesy of Fernández-Gao, includes a young from-the-barrel version of their famous palo cortado sherry. For the cuisine the team behind the project has developed a menu that combines Jerez classics such as rabo de toro and carrillada with creative dishes based on local seasonal ingredients, many of which use sherry wine in their preparation. Los Monos is a no-frills low-key tapas bar-restaurant ideal for sherry-pairing meals.

Day 5 in Ronda

Day 5 - Ronda Exploration and Gastronomy

Transfer to Ronda
Kieninger Winery Visit
Cortijo de los Aguilares Winery Visit
Lunch at Casa María
Ronda walking tour
Dinner at Tabanco Los Arcos Restaurant OR
Dinner at Bardal Restaurant (2 Michelin stars)
Overnight Ronda

Ronda

Ronda is the jewel in the crown of the so-called white villages, those picturesque hilltop towns that dot the mountainous areas of Andalusia. Perched on two sides of a plunging gorge where birds nest, Ronda offers stunning views over the surrounding countryside. The 17th-century Puente Nueva, an impossible looking stone bridge, crosses the gorge and leads to the old town, where narrow streets give way to enchanting plazas and hidden palaces.

In addition to its beauty and history, Ronda is one of Andalusia's most exciting and surprising wine-producing areas. Though there is a long history of wine production around Ronda, it was only in the 1980s that the current generation of wineries set up in the area. Since there were almost no vineyards left in the area the new wineries planted Spanish, French and Austrian grapes. Four decades on, the most successful grapes in Ronda have turned out to be Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt.

The vineyards of Ronda lie primarily in the hills surrounding the town. The high elevation brings cool nights that allow the northern grapes to thrive in the Mediterranean climate, while the plentiful sunshine ensures that the grapes ripen fully. The variety of elevations, slopes and soils enable Ronda wineries to make diverse styles. Bordeaux blends and wines made from Spanish grapes like Garnacha and Tempranillo can be full-bodied and rich, while the Pinot Noirs from the highest vineyards are stunningly fresh. The quality of the diverse styles have led Ronda to be regarded as Andalusia's premier red wine region.

There are numerous wineries to visit just outside the town of Ronda, offering idyllic countryside locations with views over the hills and valleys around the town. In addition, thanks to the efforts of local sommeliers and wine enthusiasts, there are many great places to drink Ronda wine in town. Bars and restaurants have embraced their local wine, with many offering dozens of Ronda wines to try.

Kieninger Winery Visit

Kieninger was among the first wineries of the new generation in the area. Austrian founder Martin Kieninger trained as an architect and first came to the area near Ronda in that capacity. He fell in love with the landscape and the potential of the mountains around Ronda for wine production. Kieninger brought his Austrian heritage with him, planting Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt alongside French grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and Spanish varieties like Tintilla de Rota and Garnacha. Today, his winemaking dream is fully realized. The winery building and house are surrounded by vineyards grown without any pesticides or other artificial chemicals. Bees and other insects fly through the air, and aromatic plants and trees dot the property. The winemaking is traditional, seeking to express the vineyards rather than obscure them. The result is a line of delicious and surprising wines. The Austrian grape varieties work surprisingly well in Ronda’s high elevation Mediterranean climate, bringing vibrant acidity and fruit to reds and a rosé. You’ll find more concentration in the reds made from French and Spanish grapes, but with plenty of finesse and drinkability. Kieninger is one of the great success stories of Ronda wine and continues to set the standard of the region.

Cortijo de los Aguilares Winery Visit

Cortijo de los Aguilares is the star of Ronda’s wine scene, producing cult wines that are sought after around the world. The winery is a luxurious whitewashed estate outside of Ronda, where the land starts to slope up towards the surrounding mountains. The property includes not just vineyards, but hundreds of acres of holm oak forest where Iberian pigs roam. The vineyards are among Ronda's highest, offering panoramic views over the countryside. There are a variety of grapes planted on the property, including Spanish grapes Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Graciano alongside French varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Pinot Noir. Cortijo de los Aguilares produces delicious blends from these vineyards, but it’s the single-vineyard varietal wines that have established the winery’s reputation. The Pinot Noir and Petit Verdot wines produced here have helped prove the viability of these unlikely grapes in Ronda. Careful vineyard work and winemaking techniques mean that they remain among the best varietal wines produced not just in Ronda but in all of Spain.

Lunch at Casa María Restaurant

A family run restaurant on a picturesque plaza off the beaten track in Ronda, Casa María is one of the town’s hidden gems. Step inside and allow the owners to take you on a culinary journey. Rather than ordering à la carte, the owners dictate a daily selection of dishes based on what is fresh and seasonal in the area. The cuisine is simple but delicious, highlighting the quality of the ingredients used. Expect local vegetables, fresh fish and seafood from the coast, and expertly cooked meat sourced from the surrounding area. The small but selected wine cellar provides the perfect accompaniment.

Ronda Walking Tour

Once in Ronda, take a stroll around the old town, where you’ll be able to see sights like the bull ring and the famous bridge spanning the dramatic gorge that splits Ronda in two.

Dinner Options

Tabanco Los Arcos Restaurant

Tabanco Los Arcos is a welcoming tapas bar and restaurant in the heart of Ronda’s old town, just steps from the famous gorge-spanning bridge. Here you can relax and enjoy tapas and plates of charcuterie and cheese alongside delicious preparations that highlight local seasonal products. It’s a great getaway in the heart of Ronda. Tabanco Los Arcos is also beloved by the winemakers and wine enjoyers of the area for its wine selection. This is the most accessible spot to try Ronda wines. You’ll find wines from nearly every producer in the area, including unusual and limited bottlings, and many of them are served by the glass. Add in the friendly staff and you have a classic spot to eat and drink in Ronda.

Bardal Restaurant (2 Michelin stars)

After working in some of Spain’s top kitchens and running the excellent casual restaurant Tragatá in Ronda, chef Benito Gómez decided to dive back into haute cuisine with Bardal in the heart of Ronda. In just a few years Bardal has become one of Andalusia’s most acclaimed restaurants and accumulated two Michelin stars along the way. Dining at Bardal is comfortable and relaxing, for the space, the cuisine, and the staff transmit Gómez’s philosophy that a restaurant should be about eating and enjoyment, not pretention. The cuisine at Bardal has traditional Andalusian dishes and local ingredients at its heart, but Gómez also uses ingredients and flavors from other parts of Spain, especially his native Catalonia. Expect seasonal dishes that combine flavors and techniques in surprising ways to highlight the essence of star products. The selection of Andalusian cheeses and the desserts made in house are unmissable. The wine cellar is carefully selected, highlighting Andalusian wines from around Ronda and exciting regions like Jerez alongside terroir-focused wines from Spain and around the world. Bardal is a friendly but exceptional leader of new Andalusian cuisine.

Days 6 - 7 in Córdoba

Day 6 - Montilla-Moriles Excellence

Transfer to Montilla-Moriles
Los Insensatos winery visit
Alvear winery visit
Lunch at Taberna Bolero
Transfer to Córdoba
Overnight Córdoba

Montilla-Moriles

South of the city of Córdoba, Montilla-Moriles is Andalusia’s secret wine region. Here wines of similar style to sherry are produced from vineyards planted on the slopes of the picturesque countryside. The local Pedro Ximenez grape is best known for its ability to produce black-colored long-aged sweet wines, but it’s also used to make styles of wine more associated with Jerez like fino, amontillado, and palo cortado. Its lack of international fame has left Montilla-Moriles with an intact winemaking heritage and a deep stock of very old wines. The area is rich in other products as well, most notably producing some of the best extra virgin olive oils in the world. The perfect step off the beaten path for lovers of fortified wines or simply a sense of adventure, Montilla-Moriles is one of Andalusia’s jewels.

Los Insensatos Winery Visit

Los Insensatos is one of the newest and most exciting projects in Montilla-Moriles. The team behind this winery started the project in 2020 with the idea of making wines from the indigenous white Pedro Ximenez grape that express the singularity of some of the oldest and most fascinating vineyards in Montilla-Moriles. Today, Insensatos produces a constellation of small-production whites that age in the traditional Cordoban amphoras. There are no sherry-style wines here, just a pure expression of Pedro Ximenez and the chalky soils of the vineyards. The passion of the owners for the best vineyards and expert winemaking have created the a project that offers a unique vision of the potential of the area.

Alvear Winery Visit

The oldest winery in Montilla-Moriles (allegedly the third-oldest in Spain), Alvear has a long and aristocratic history of making fine wine. Founded in 1729, the winery remains owned and run by the Alvear family. The name Alvear became associated with massive wealth and power, both in Montilla (seemingly half the buildings in town were owned or built by the family) as well as halfway around the world in Argentina, where the Alvear name adorns plazas and avenues due to their stature there. And it all began with the fine wines made south of Córdoba.

Stepping inside Alvear’s winery takes you to another world. The sprawling complex of gardens, patios, and winery buildings right in the center of Montilla is a world. The old bodega where the finest wines age is dimly lit, quiet and humid, filled with the scent of flor yeast. Alvear makes and bottles some of the finest and oldest wines from Montilla-Moriles, in some cases descended from wines laid down at the foundation of the winery nearly 300 years ago.

Every style of wine at Alvear is elite, but there are two types of wines for which the house is particularly renowned. The first are the special bottlings in small bottles adorned with tan labels. These are the iconic dry wines from the best soleras, from impeccable old fino to rare old amontillado and palo cortado. They’re wines that are sought after by wine enthusiasts wherever they are to be found for their unique and elegant character and very limited production. This being Pedro Ximenez country, Alvear is also known for their sweet wines made from this local grape. Old soleras of black, thick sweet PX produce limited bottlings of old wines, but Alvear also makes a vintage PX that’s lighter in texture but deeply complex, and this last style won the winery its first perfect Wine Advocate score.

There are few wineries in Spain that seem to be able to do no wrong, never producing a mediocre wine, but Alvear not only meets this standard, but they have been doing so longer than almost anyone. A mandatory stop in Montilla-Moriles.

Taberna Bolero Restaurant

Taberna Bolero lies in the heart of wine town Montilla. It’s a cozy space, traditional yet elegant, and the cuisine strikes the same balance. You’ll find the classics of Cordoban cuisine on the menu, but with a focus on creatively updating the dishes to bring out their essence. Taberna Bolero also specializes in fish and seafood, brought fresh from the Andalusian coast, that pairs very well with Montilla-Moriles wines. You’ll find an extensive list of local wines here, from fresh young whites to long-aged dry and sweet wines.

Day 7 - Córdoba History and Fine Dining

Córdoba Mezquita & patios tour
Tabernas wine-pairing lunch
Dinner at 3-Michelin Star Noor Restaurant
Overnight Córdoba

Córdoba

In the center of Andalucia, the one-time Moorish capital of Córdoba is a real hidden gem. Best known for La Mezquita–its mosque turned cathedral–and the surrounding former Jewish quarter, the city offers more than meets the eye. The traditional tabernas are temples to classic Andalusian food, highlighting dishes like gazpacho’s cousin salmorejo, stewed oxtail, vegetable pisto with a fried egg, and a galaxy of delicious tapas. Córdoba is home to Noor, a one of a kind three Michelin star restaurant where chef Paco Morales unearths and reinterprets the cuisine of Al Andalus, the Moorish empire that once reigned in Andalusia.

The countryside outside of town is rich in superb products. Some of Spain’s best olive oil is made near the city, and its influence on the cuisine here is strong. The Montilla Moriles wine region, where the local Pedro Ximenez grape grows in chalky white Albariza soils is outside of town. The wines are both dry and sweet, sherry-style, but the wineries there are also revolutionizing the winemaking and bringing out dry, non-sherry-style white wines.

Córdoba has a rich cuisine that harkens back to its Moorish history, and the city’s tabernas, traditional tapas bars characterized by dark wood and cozy interiors, are the perfect places to discover it. Classic dishes of the city include salmorejo, a cold tomato soup thickened with bread and egg that is the local version of gazpacho, and rabo de toro, stewed oxtail. You can belly up to the bar and wash these and other delicious plates down with local Montilla Moriles wine as the locals do, or sit in one of Córdoba’s atmospheric plazas and enjoy the southern sun.

Córdoba Mezquita & Patios Tour

Córdoba was once the most populous city in the world, the intellectual center of Europe, and the capital of an Islamic caliphate. Your private walking tour of Córdoba’s old city will include the 8th-century the grand mosque built when Córdoba was the capital of Al-Andalus, the Moorish empire in Spain. After the reconquest of the city by the Christians, the mosque was converted into a cathedral, but the architecture of the original mosque was thankfully preserved. Walking through the ornately decorated halls, you can feel the weight of Moorish history in Córdoba. The Mezquita is one of Spain’s greatest surviving monuments from the Moorish occupation.

Visit traditional flower-filled Córdoba patios which are recognized by Unesco as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Their origins date back to the Romans and many traditional cordobés houses have conserved them in a traditional state. After the patios visit stop in at an Arabic tea house for a refreshing glass of tea.

Tabernas Wine-Pairing Lunch

Join up with our friend and local wine expert for a deep dive into the cuisine and products of Córdoba. Head to a traditional taberna where the best regional dishes are on the menu. Your guide on this journey will pair surprising local wines with the plates, showing the richness of Córdoba’s cooking and the great potential of its wines.

Dinner at Noor Restaurant (3 Michelin stars)

Enjoy dinner at three-Michelin star Noor Restaurant in Córdoba (Noor received their third Michelin star in 2023). Noor (noor means light in Arabic) is most of all a connection to the past. Hidden away from the center, this small restaurant works like a time machine back to the days of the Moorish occupation of Al-Andalus. Chef Paco Morales, a Córdoba native with experience at El Bulli and Mugaritz restaurants in Spain, brings the dishes that defined different historical periods of Córdoban and Andalusian cuisine into the present. Each “season” of the restaurant is dedicated to a different era. The unique flavors of these forgotten dishes, which fuse Spanish and Moorish influences and ingredients, are one of a kind. The service, atmosphere, and impeccable preparation combine with the unique concept to make Noor an essential visit for any curious food lover traveling to Spain.

Day 8 - Departure

Transfer to the Córdoba train station for departure. The AVE high-speed train to Madrid takes 1.5 hours; to Sevilla it takes 1 hour.

Hotels

Cádiz Hotel - 4 nights

Hotel Casa Cánovas – A historic palatial house in the heart of Cadiz’s old town has been converted into a beautiful boutique hotel. The design and materials of the building merge seamlessly with the elegant redesign. The public spaces and rooms are enchanting and comfortable. If you’re looking for a different dining experience in Cádiz, don’t miss the restaurant, where local star chef Danilo Piteo reinvents the best of his native Italian cuisine.

Ronda Hotel - 1 night

Parador de Ronda – One of the most spectacular of Spain’s Parador hotels, built to take advantage of special historic buildings, the Parador de Ronda offers four star accommodation in the town’s former town hall. The grand building offers views of Ronda and the surrounding countryside. It’s just steps Ronda’s iconic bridge and the town’s other monuments, bars and restaurants. The rooms are elegantly furnished and offer outdoor terraces, many with incredible views. The outdoor terrace of the Parador’s bar downstairs is a great place to relax after a day of touring.

Córdoba Hotel - 2 nights

Palacio del Bailío - On a quiet street on the edge of Córdoba’s old town, the Palacio del Bailío is a world apart. Walk through the leafy entryway and you’re in a sprawling world of whitewashed walls and atmospheric patios. The building was an artistocratic palace, but its history, visible to this day, goes back to Roman times. The palace has been redone with care, yielding rooms that retain historic character while incorporating modern luxury. The public areas of the hotel are extensive and enchanting, from the outdoor pool in one of the patios to the bar’s terrace and the spa that’s included for all guests. For a night in, the surprising fusion restaurant Arbequina offers new flavors in a relaxing environment.

The Wines of Andalusia Trip Includes

7 nights hotel, double occupancy
breakfast daily
6 lunches

lunches while wine touring (4 lunches)
lunches in Cádiz (Day 1) and Córdoba (Day 7)

expert private guides & local specialists
premium private tastings at wineries
guided wine tastings and wine-pairing meals
restaurant concierge service
restaurant reservations for dinners
deluxe air-conditioned private transport
Epicurean Ways expertise
in-country support

Not Included

travel insurance
tips to guides and drivers (not required but appreciated)
lunch on Day 2 and dinners
extras in hotels such as room service, minibars, etc.
flights to and from Spain

A note on winery visits, restaurant selections and hotels

All tours, experiences and hotels are subject to availability and will be confirmed upon booking the trip.

You will be accompanied by a driver-guide during your wine touring. Your visits and tastings will be private and with the winemaker, a family member or an expert who knows the winery and the wines well. We work with the wineries to make sure that you taste the best and most representative wines during each visit. It is sometimes possible to arrange extended tastings that include old vintages or rare wines. We have an extensive group of wineries whose owners we know and with whom we work regularly, so we can guarantee high-level visits even if a winery has to be substituted. If you have an interest in visiting a particular producer please let us know.

We include restaurant concierge service as part of your trip. Note that our restaurant suggestions are just that–suggestions. Places we love, places to go back to time after time. We recommend these places after years of experience eating in Spain and Portugal together with frequent research and input from our local partners. We aspire to guide your choices with information on the styles of cuisine and restaurants; the choice on where to eat is yours based on your preferences and desires. Note that the cost of the lunches/dinners is not included unless specified under the included items. Normally your included meals are with a guide while touring or tapas tours or wine-tasting meals.

We have included hotel options ranging from 5-star luxury properties to small boutique hotels. Let us know your preferences and we will tailor the hotel choices for you.

Trip Prices

Note that we can customize this trip for you. Add days in your arrival or departure city or in other locations or make changes to the experiences, winery visits, restaurants, or hotels included in the trip. Whatever it is, we’re here to work with you. Once you’re happy with the trip plan and have some idea of your dates we will calculate and send you the price.