Ribera del Duero Terroir Wine Tour

Spend two days visiting a selection of Ribera del Duero’s most exciting producers, including classic wineries in Valladolid and new luminaries in the high-elevation parts of Burgos province.

Ribera del Duero

The highway heading east out of Valladolid hugs the Duero River all the way to the end of the Ribera del Duero wine region in Soria province. The wineries start right away. Converted monasteries and gleaming modern structures sit surrounded by fields of vineyards. Blink and you’ll miss a famous name: Mauro, Vega Sicilia, Pingus, Pesquera. The most famous region title goes to Rioja, but this is where the legends of Spanish fine wine become real. For the highest wine region in Spain, it’s surprisingly flat country, interrupted by castles and old watchtowers. The towns cluster along the Duero where they can, dominated by structures that seem older than the towns themselves. Roast lamb is the classic dish here, considered a perfect match for the powerful local reds. Explore a wine list, or better yet a winery, and you’ll soon find more than power here. Whether from famous names or small vignerons, today’s Riberas can be elegant, restrained, and absolutely divine.

The altitude and extreme continental climate help to build structured elegant and often bold wines, made almost entirely from Tempranillo (known here as Tinta del País or Tinto Fino). These wines benefit from aging, especially the reservas and gran reservas. A better match for the hearty local cuisine than Ribera wines would be hard to come by. Top recommended dishes are roast baby lamb, hearty stews and sheep’s milk cheeses. Ribera is not only about the well known wines favored by the critics and wine enthusiasts. New players have entered the field, typically smaller wineries, whose innovative practices in the field and in the bodega are expanding on the flavors of Ribera del Duero wines.

Day 1 – The Terroir of Burgos

Private transfer from Madrid or Rioja to the Ribera del Duero wine region
Pago de los Capellanes winery visit
Alonso del Yerro winery visit and tasting
Áster winery visit and wine-tasting lunch
Dinner at El Refectorio
Overnight Hotel Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine

Pago de los Capellanes Winery Visit

Pago de los Capellanes lies in Pedrosa de Duero and is surrounded by high-elevation vineyards. The Rodero Villa family, like many of Ribera’s top winemakers, started out growing grapes to supply large wineries in the region. In 1996, they decided to make their own wines to take advantage of their old vines and excellent location. Things have gone very well. Today Pago de los Capellanes is one of the most respected names in Ribera del Duero, and the family has even acquired a winery in Valdeorras in Galicia to satisfy their desire to make white wines.

The wines of Pago de los Capellanes are a study in Tempranillo aged in French oak. Here you will find the classic Ribera del Duero categories in the Roble, Crianza, and Reserva as well as single-plot wines El Nogal and El Picón. Younger vines from high-quality areas of Burgos province are used for the Roble and the Crianza. The Reserva blends plots of old vines from the family’s vineyards near the winery. El Nogal and El Picón emerge from the oldest and finest vineyards. El Nogal spends 18 months in oak, while El Picón’s very limited production ages for 22 months.

Alonso del Yerro Winery Visit and Tasting

Javier Alonso and María del Yerro were lovers and collectors of fine wines for years before they decided to make some of their own. In 2002 they bought Tempranillo vineyards near Roa in Burgos province, home to some of Ribera del Duero’s best vineyards. In order to make the best wines possible, the family hired French experts to assist with the winemaking and assess the soils. One result was the decision to produce and age wine from each soil separately before making a final blend. Perhaps through power of suggestion, the French influence seems to bring elegance to the wines as well.

The winery complex is a beautiful building, inside and out. One section houses the winery, featuring a barrel room decorated with María’s collection of designer scarves and a tasting room where the family’s collection of rare wines can be lusted after. Another area is the home of the family when they are not in Madrid, designed with impeccable taste and windows overlooking the vineyards. The best part must be the hospitality of María and her son and winemaker Miguel, who personally welcome those who visit the winery. You can really feel the passion for this family project.

Alonso del Yerro makes two wines in Ribera del Duero, plus one from their family project in the Toro region. All are elegant yet powerful Tempranillos, quite different from those common in the Valladolid area of Ribera del Duero. Alonso del Yerro is a blend of plots from the vineyards surrounding the winery featuring a variety of soils. María, the family’s dedication to María del Yerro, comes from just two selected plots. María is a rich yet floral wine, wonderful today and with the structure to age for many years to come. Paydos, from D.O. Toro, is not an afterthought. Very old vines of the Tinta de Toro clone of Tempranillo yield a wine of great subtlety that will turn you into a believer in this up-and-coming wine region.

Áster Winery Visit and Wine-Pairing Lunch

Enjoy a winery lunch at Áster. The menu showcases traditional Ribera del Duero cuisine alongside creative interpretations of local ingredients and pairs perfectly with the delicious Áster wines. After a delicious meal including desserts you’ll want to relax here all afternoon.

Of the Ribera del Duero outposts of the powerhouse wineries of Rioja, Áster has been perhaps the most successful. Created by La Rioja Alta and fortified by the house’s experience and resources, Áster has found an identity that balances the elegance of Riojan winemaking techniques with the power and concentration that define Ribera del Duero’s best wines. The wines made at Áster are sourced from estate vineyards of Tempranillo and aged in French oak. Áster comes from a blend of plots from near Anguix in the heart of Ribera’s “golden triangle” and a reliably excellent Ribera. Single-vineyard Finca El Otero and Finca El Espino come from two sides of the vineyard surrounding the winery and show two sides of Ribera wine as well. El Otero aims for classic Ribera intensity and opulence, while El Espino brings the fruit and freshness of the New Ribera. Áster’s wines combine richness and complexity into an attractive Ribera style that maintains the ability to age immortally.

The winery buildings are new but built in a classic style that looks right at home with the vineyards. One holds the winemaking facilities, but the other is inspired by French chateau architecture and offers the ability to enjoy a meal accompanied by excellent Áster wines and surrounded by vineyards.

Dinner at El Refectorio

Enjoy one of the three tasting menus in El Refectorio Restaurant. Located in the former refectory of the 12th-century Abadía Retuerta monastery, this one Michelin star restaurant provides imaginative dishes based on the local products of the area. The contrast between the historic refectory and the modern cuisine will not leave you indifferent. The wine list features over 500 wines, including library and experimental wines from the Abadía Retuerta winery, along with the finest wines of Ribera del Duero, Spain, and the world.

Day 2 – Ribera’s Golden Mile

Dehesa de los Canónigos winery visit
Tr3smano winery visit
Lunch at Ambivium
Overnight Hotel Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine

Dehesa de los Canónigos Winery Visit

The name of this family-owned winery pays homage to the original owners of the property, the monks of the Cathedral of Valladolid. The Cid family purchased the property in 1931, and today their descendants own the property. The estate vineyards provided grapes for nearby Vega Sicilia for many years, until the family decided to make its own wine in 1989.

The property encompasses hundreds of acres, but almost all of the land is covered in indigenous umbrella pine trees that surround the vineyards. Most of the vines are Tempranillo, but there is some Cabernet Sauvignon and white Albillo. The winery is beautiful, a series of old farm buildings converted for winemaking with modern equipment and elegant design. You’ll mostly see American oak here, something that differentiates Dehesa de los Canónigos from many France-inspired producers in Ribera. You could come here just for the scenery: the winery, the tasting room, the garden, and a cozy space with a fireplace to relax and enjoy. There is a chapel on-site, as well as the family’s home right next to the winery.

The wines spend plenty of time in oak and are perfect if you like classic Ribera del Duero wines. They take the oak very well, and are enjoyable on release. There is a young wine, Quinta Generación, with four months in oak. The crianza is a serious wine, with 15 months in oak and a bit of Cabernet. Selección Especial has the same blend of grapes as the Crianza, but from a single plot of old vines and with 18 months aging. Solideo is a top-class reserva with Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a bit of white Albillo that is made only in exceptional years. The Gran Reserva is the top wine, old vines of Tempranillo and Albillo yielding a wine of great concentration suitable for long aging. Only great years produce this gran reserva, and it spends over 36 months in barrel and more in bottle before release.

The last few years have brought new wines at Dehesa de los Canónigos. The aged white is Albillo Mayor, while Luzianilla is a serious take on Ribera’s heritage clarete style, a sort of hearty rosé made from Tempranillo and Albillo that was once the main kind of wine made in the whole region.

Tr3smano Winery Visit

The growing prestige of Ribera del Duero over the last few decades has inspired outsiders to invest in the region. Tr3smano (stylized Spanish for “three hands”) had the team to succeed in the region: the founders of Mexico’s largest importer of Spanish wine, legendary Rioja winery Remírez de Ganuza, and the up-and-coming Somontano DO. Their combined expertise has helped Tr3smano become one of the most promising projects in the region in just a few short years. The extraordinary modern winery is designed to allow perfect control over winemaking and aging. The trio found plots of old vines in the best areas of Ribera’s “golden mile” and today use them to make fine Tempranillo reds. The hand of the late Fernando Remírez de Ganuza is evident in the final product, wines with a power and concentration balanced by elegance. Nothing is out of place. These outsiders have found their way to the soul of Ribera del Duero.

Lunch at Ambivium

This unique Michelin star restaurant owned by Ribera del Duero legendary winery Pago de Carraovejas offers reimagined dishes that each pay homage to local ingredients, dishes, or traditions. The tasting menus offer a dizzying array of plates to sample, and the wine list is an experience in itself. In addition to the option of pairing your meal with Pago de Carraovejas wines, Ambivium boasts a wine list with more than 3,000 wines from around the world, from the greats of France to rare bottles of old sherry and everything in between. If you want an incredible wine experience, you can opt for the pairing with wines from around the world and let the award-winning sommelier and his team take you on a journey like no other.

Day 3 – Departure

Private transfer to Madrid or Rioja for departure

Hotel

Ribera del Duero - 2 nights

Abadía Retuerta - The 12th century abbey of Abadía Retuerta has been converted into the most luxurious hotel in the Ribera del Duero. Pharmaceutical giant Novartis acquired the historic property in 1988, and after first restarting wine production, they set about restoring the abbey. The hotel has preserved the monastic atmosphere, turning the monks’ rooms into hotel rooms, the courtyard into a seasonal terrace, and the refectory into a Michelin star restaurant. You won’t have to be a monk to stay here, however. The rooms are beautifully designed and spacious, featuring views over the vineyards of the estate. The service goes above and beyond, with each guest assigned their own expert butler reachable on a dedicated cell phone for any imaginable need. In addition to the Michelin star restaurant, you can drink wine and eat in the more casual Vinoteca or outdoors when the weather permits. There is also a superb spa and an outdoor pool. Abadía Retuerta is the perfect place to disconnect and relax after a day of traveling the Ribera del Duero.

Trip Includes

2 nights hotel, double occupancy
breakfast daily in the hotels
expert private guides
private premium tours and tastings at wineries
private driver-guide for wine tour days
1 lunch with wine
restaurant reservations and recommendations
full trip planning
in-country trip assistance and on-the-ground support
Epicurean Ways expertise

Not Included

flights to/from Spain and flights within Spain
tips to guides and drivers (optional but appreciated)
travel insurance (recommended)
extra charges in hotels (minibar, room service, etc)

A note on winery visits, restaurant selections and hotels

All tours, experiences and hotels are subject to availability and will be confirmed upon booking the trip.

You will be accompanied by a driver-guide during your wine touring. Your visits and tastings will be private and with the winemaker, a family member or an expert who knows the winery and the wines well. We work with the wineries to make sure that you taste the best and most representative wines during each visit. It is sometimes possible to arrange extended tastings that include old vintages or rare wines. We have an extensive group of wineries whose owners we know and with whom we work regularly, so we can guarantee high-level visits even if a winery has to be substituted. If you have an interest in visiting a particular producer please let us know.

We include restaurant concierge service as part of your trip. Note that our restaurant suggestions are just that–suggestions. Places we love, places to go back to time after time. We recommend these places after years of experience eating in Spain and Portugal together with frequent research and input from our local partners. We aspire to guide your choices with information on the styles of cuisine and restaurants; the choice on where to eat is yours based on your preferences and desires.

We have included hotel options ranging from 5-star luxury properties to small boutique hotels. Let us know your preferences and we will tailor the hotel choices for you.

Trip Prices

Note that we can customize this trip for you. Add days in your arrival or departure city or in other locations or make changes to the experiences, winery visits, restaurants, or hotels included in the trip. Whatever it is, we’re here to work with you. Once you’re happy with the trip plan and have some idea of your dates we will calculate and send you the price.