Updates From the Road
Madrid, March 2025
Back from some days in Madrid, so some preliminary thoughts and updates on hotels, restaurants, wine bars and cocktail bars. Many of these spots will be written up more fully in upcoming blog posts or added to existing posts.
HOTELS
The Gran Vía is not my favorite hotel location given the massive shopping street it has become, with the crowds marching from Zara to Mango to Primark. I do recognize it’s a convenient place to stay with accessible transport on the avenue and its relative proximity to sites, monuments and museums. So I recently visited three hotels on or just off the Gran Vía. Two are relative bargains and the third is a brand new five star.
7 Islas Hotel–A casual minimalist hotel just off the Gran Vía. Caters to a younger crowd (think 30 somethings) of mainly Europeans. Slightly tropical decor in the lobby and lobby bar. Nice rooms, professional service.
Innside by Meliá Madrid Gran Vía–A 4-star hotel with two stunning roof terrace bars sporting 7th and 8th floor views over the Gran Vía. Worth a stay for that alone. European clientele, nice lobby bar.
Brach Madrid – The latest luxury hotel opening on the Gran Vía is Brach Madrid, the second hotel under the brand after Brach Paris. Phillippe Starck’s design is all over the hotel, and the vibe is clubby. The ground floor has a smart fusion restaurant and bar alongside a bakery-café. Either one is worth a stop for a little glamor on the Gran Vía.
RESTAURANTS
Madrid seems to sprout new restaurants like mushrooms, especially at the high end, but the reliable classics seem to offer stability and value.
O’Caldino – A hidden oasis in ritzy Salamanca district, this tapas bar and restaurant offers old-school service and top-tier Galician cuisine. Sit at the bar for a quick plate of octopus or shrimp. This being Salamanca, the prices aren’t low but you’re paying for quality, not fashion.
La Montería – A cult classic among the gourmets of the Retiro district, the specialty is game, furry or feathered. Like most of the spots in the Calle Ibiza area, there’s a bustling bar area full of Spaniards, but the dining room is comfortable and service is fast. Order something with partridge. Great wine list.
O Grove – Also near Calle Ibiza, this is a seafood temple. You’ll see many people getting mariscadas (seafood platters) with Galician crab, lobster, clams and more, but you can order plates of whatever you like. The mussels are among the best I’ve had.
Lakasa – A favorite among chefs in Madrid, Lakasa is a bit out of the way for visitors to Madrid but it’s just a short taxi ride from the center. It’s worth the detour: simple creative dishes, full of flavor. The fact that you can get half portions of most everything is a huge plus. Game is a specialty but the menu changes frequently. Very good wine at fair prices and very personal service.
WINE BARS
Vinology – Return trips to both of Vinology’s locations confirm this as the benchmark for Madrid wine bars. Highly personal service (almost Michelin star level) makes it relaxing rather than intimidating. In a world where natural and weird wine is everywhere, it’s nice to have a wine list full of reliable greats. Comfortable whether you want a glass or opt to eat as well.
Vinoteca Vides – Strong opinions are on the menu here. The owner holds court from behind the bar, recommending glasses and choosing cheeses for small space packed with willing victims. He chooses all of the wines by the glass (20 or more) and will gladly tell you why one winery is good and another overrated. The wines are really quite good, so it’s fun.
Propaganda – Italian wine and tapas with two locations. The Salamanca location is packed with flashy people and baby oligarchs ordering the most expensive things they can see. I prefer the Chueca Propaganda, less busy and cozier. Really good Italian wine at fair prices and quality charcuterie. Helpfully on the same street as Vinoteca Vides for a package deal.
The Library – The newest, coolest and priciest wine bar in Madrid. Packed with aristocrats and wanna-be’s. The space is beautiful, all high ceilings and gold; it must have cost millions to restore. Top-tier wines by the glass and bottle, but stunningly expensive. Maybe the prices make it feel even more like New York than it already does. The busy vibe makes a strange vibe to enjoy the kind of wine they have here.
COCKTAIL BARS
Ni Fu Ni Fa – A mandatory stop when I want a strong one in Madrid. A kind of neighborhood bar decorated with weird old posters and furniture. The owner is almost always there, making drinks and checking on people. Drinks tend classic and strong. A really nice place to get a break from the busy streets of Malasaña and Chueca.
Bar Cock – Maybe the last true taste of Madrid’s 1980s Movida, Bar Cock has gotten a little more modern since I was last there: they have actual waiters rather than one bowtied bartender doing everything, and they got a new soundtrack. Still, the high ceilings and spaced-out tables give it the feel of a hotel lobby bar from a century ago. Order classic drinks: it’s what they know and they make them strong.
Calle Ballesta – For decades, this was one of Malasaña’s grittiest streets. Tucked behind the Gran Vía, the only reason for a visitor to come here was La Tasquita de Enfrente, Juanjo’s fine dining restaurant focused on simple recipes and expensive ingredients. La Tasquita is still there, but there are a few other bright spots now. The aforementioned Innside by Meliá lies near the start of the street. Next to Juanjo’s restaurant is Santamaría, a hole in the wall that serves great rum cocktails and other classics. Just down the street is Leinerhaus, a German bar-restaurant with lots of good beer, sausages and hearty Bavarian stews. As things change, some things stay the same: Calle Ballesta is probably the only place in Madrid you’ll still see women on the street waiting patiently for clients. Today there are a few more reasons to give the street a look.