Sherry Vermouth: Old is New Again
Vermouth
Vermouth may not be the drink most associated with Spain, but today it is riding a wave of popularity across the country. Wine-producing regions in Spain, especially Catalonia, have made vermouth since the 19th century. Famous brands commissioned beautiful promotional artwork and competed to create the most popular recipes. Yet the drink was largely forgotten by the second half of the 20th century. Until recently, it was served almost exclusively at the most traditional bars alongside old-school spirits like brandy and anis.
Eventually curious and thirsty people noticed that this classic drink was actually very good and inexpensive. In the last decade or so vermouth has seen its popularity rise in nearly every region of Spain. Now aperitif spots and tapas bars serve large pours of the stuff at all hours to a clientele that’s younger than ever. Classic brands can be spotted alongside creative new bottlings and resurrected relics from the drink’s early 20th-century glory days. One of these old-is-new-again hits is Sherry vermouth, which is catching bartenders’ and drinkers’ attention from Madrid to London to New York.
Sherry Vermouth
Most vermouth in Spain and elsewhere is made from white or occasionally red wine fortified with alcohol, infused with herbs and spices and sweetened with sugar. In the case of Sherry vermouth, mature Sherry wine from Andalusia serves as the base. Sherry vermouth doesn’t need additional fortification since it’s either already fortified or naturally above 15% in the case of sherry-style wines from Córdoba’s Montilla-Moriles wine region. Sherry vermouth is usually sweetened with sweet sherry made from Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel. The result is a vermouth that’s less sweet than most and has a depth and complexity unlike common vermouths. As with anything, starting with exceptional raw material makes Sherry vermouth stand out in terms of quality.
Sherry styles are reflected in the styles of vermouth. There are Sherry vermouths made from fino, manzanilla, amontillado and oloroso. Bone-dry Sherry vermouths exist, but most have a touch of sweetness to balance out the bitterness of the infused botanicals. This sweetness comes not from the addition of sugars or concentrates but from the blending of sherry styles: 10-20% Pedro Ximenez or Moscatel sherry is blended into most Sherry vermouths for a touch of sweetness.
How to Drink Sherry Vermouth
In Andalusia, Sherry vermouth is usually consumed on its own, with ice, or with a slice of orange. The depth of nutty, savory flavor from the dry Sherry base combines with the richness of the sweet wine and the infused spices to create a perfect sipping vermouth. You can comfortably drink Sherry vermouth before a meal, but its balanced dryness means it can pair with food or even be drunk as a digestif. An orange slice in the glass will accentuate the dried fruit and spice aromas that are common in quality old Sherry.
Sherry Vermouth Cocktails
Sherry vermouth has become popular with bartenders around the world for its ability to fit into and improve a wide range of cocktails. In classic vermouth-heavy cocktails like the Manhattan, a Sherry vermouth made from oloroso or amontillado creates a deeper, spicier drink than the usual sweet red vermouth. Dry white vermouths made from fino or manzanilla like the Goyesco bottling discussed below can make cocktails that call for dry vermouth smoother and more gastronomic. But it’s in sherry cocktails that Sherry vermouths show their maximum potential. Iconic cocktails like the Bamboo and the Adonis work best when using a sherry-based vermouth, but it’s safe to say any time you want a deep, complex flavor from a vermouth, a sherry-based infusion will deliver.
Recommended Sherry Vermouths
Delgado Zuleta Vermut Goyesco
This is the most successful attempt to date to make a sherry “dry vermouth.” Unlike this vermouth’s sherry relatives, Goyesco is made from dry Manzanilla sherry. The result is a citrusy vermouth that’s refreshingly dry. Perfect for cocktails. Look out for its brother Goyesco Ámbar, made with amontillado and equally delicious. These two are my favorites.
Fernando de Castilla Vermut
A textbook example of sherry vermouth. A blend of oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherries infused with botanicals. Extremely complex and spicy. Great with a slice of orange over ice and a good option to stock in your bar for cocktails.
Colección Roberto Amillo Vermut Reserva Especial
An extremely complex aromatic vermouth made from very old oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherries. This vermouth has aromas of vanilla and even chocolate or coffee from the wine combined with spicy notes from the infused herbs. A small dose of this could make a cocktail with aged spirits exceptional, but I’d happily enjoy it by itself. More of an after dinner drink than an aperitif.