Obama and Jamón?
April 9, 2008
I read in The Washington Post (Thursday, April 3, 2008) that Obama toured the Italian Market in Philadelphia and tried pata negra at the hands of vendor Ezekial Ferguson. Ferguson explained that it had only recently become legalized in the U.S. and Obama replied, “What do you mean legalized? It’s so good it’s like a drug or something?”
Well, yes. It’s that good. Jamón Ibérico is special stuff. It was only recently approved for import into the United States, and for those of us who can think of nothing better than a plate of wafer-thin slices of jamón, we can satisfy ourselves stateside.
Spain produces good jamón all around, but the best is from the pata negra, meaning black hoof– the native Iberian pig. The ham made from the Iberian pig is either de bellota or not. The Iberian pigs that roam the dehesa–the tree studded plains of western and southwestern Spain– feeding on the acorns (bellotas) and wild plants there become Jamón Ibérico de Bellota. The caviar of jamón.
The same breed of pig becomes simply Jamón Ibérico if the pig leads a normal pig life (in a pen) and feeds on grain. The jamón is excellent indeed, but lacks the intense flavor of Jamón Ibérico de Bellota.
Jamón Ibérico is salted, air-dried for 6 to 9 months, and then cured in a cellar for an additional period up to 30 months. In the process the ham loses a great deal of moisture and acquires an intense, sweet, almost nutty, flavor. Authentic Jamón Ibérico can be produced only within strictly regulated geographical areas in Spain.
A third kind of ham, by far the most common in Spain, is Jamón Serrano. The pigs that become Jamón Serrano are not the Cerdos Ibéricos, but white, often Duroc, pigs. The production of Jamón Serrano is not restricted to certain areas in Spain as it is for Jamón Ibérico, and thus the ham is in far greater supply. And its price reflects this fact.
Both Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano are worth checking out if you’re not familiar with them. They pair nicely with Manchego cheese and a loaf of good French or Italian bread. Check back for recommended jamón and wine pairings.
Posted by Jane Gregg 0 Comments
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