La Casa del Abuelo
February 25, 2008
A diminutive early 20th century bar-restaurant in Madrid’s historic centro is barely noticeable as you pass, but that’s only because of its location. It sits on the corner of two narrow streets in a neighborhood hosting a dense population of tapas bars, restaurants and cafés. Once you slow your stride and face the tapas bar square on, you see before you an original turn-of-the-last-century façade, partially obscured by painted-on menus. La Casa del Abuelo is not to be missed.
Inside the place is pristine, virtually as it was when it opened in 1906, with its marble-topped stand-only bar and and implanted counter-height tables. It serves three things–shrimp, beer and vino generoso, a fruity wine of elevated alcohol content. The shrimp comes six ways.
Gambas a la Plancha (Grilled shrimp)
Gambas al Ajillo (Garlic shrimp)
Langostinos a la Plancha (Grilled prawns)
Gambas Gabardina (Tempura-like batter fried shrimp)
Banderillas de Langostinos (Prawns on a skewer)
Croquetas de Gambas (Shrimp croquettes)
Stopping by on a recent Friday night in January, we tried three of the shrimp offerings, and all were delicious. Much of the seafood in Madrid is famously fresh, flown in from the coasts nightly. And the shrimp here seemed to be no exception. Tradition dictates that the shells peeled from the shrimp are dropped on the floor. This practice is not uncommon in Madrid tapas bars, but does give pause to many a tourist. The Valencian vino generoso served at El Abuelo is made by the owners, now in their fourth generation running the bar. Everyone calls the wine vino el Abuelo, just as they call the bar El Abuelo.
El Abuelo has attracted a following both domestically and internationally. Andy Warhol is said to have frequented the place. Spanish bullfighters and film stars drop by. Tourists and locals alike flock. The beauty of it is that it remains steadfast, imperturbable. Or, as stated on lacasadelabuelo.es, “we have survived in spite of fast food and nouvelle cuisine.”
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