Conquering Croquetas
June 2, 2010
Amy MacDonald-Persons
The mere mention of croquetas can make me swoon. Creamy, luscious, savory, the very definition of lightness, cocooned in a crispy coating; who wouldn’t swoon?
This describes croquetas at their best. Until recently those I had prepared were more like an evil twin. Leaden, sodden, heavy, with a mouthfeel akin to hockey pucks rather than ambrosia, I had all but given up preparing them at home.
Enter Willy Moya, of Sevilla, and my croqueta life changed. I recently spent time in the kitchen of Chef Moya, with the express purpose of nailing the croqueta perfecta. At his able side, this was within reach. Chef didn’t have a recipe to share with me; for him croquetas are a technique-driven dish. Given this, I scrutinized every movement, every culinary decision in the hope of creating a similar dish almost four thousand miles away from his kitchen. I wouldn’t say mine are better, but they are darn good enough and I am happy to share the recipe with you.
A few notes: Chef forms croquetas with two spoons to make a quenelle. Well-floured hands save the day here, and a cookie (or small ice cream) scoop speeds the process. You must bring the batter to the just-right consistency. When it easily and thickly coats a spoon, you have it. The basic recipe can be embellished with whatever you have on hand. Chef Moya used jamón ibérico (ojalá!), diced chicken, chopped mint, and a splash of jeréz. You may add salt; due to the ham and cheese I have omitted it here. These freeze well.
La Receta
8 tablespoons butter
3/4 cup flour
one small shallot, minced
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup chicken broth, warm
dash nutmeg
dash ground pepper
1/2 cup finely diced ham
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 eggs beaten with a bit of water
flour, plain bread crumbs or panko for coating
olive oil for frying
yield: 25-30 croquetas
Heat the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the shallot and flour, cook for about three minutes, stirring constantly. Gradually add the milk and broth, continue to stir. Add nutmeg and pepper. Stir until sauce is thick and smooth and easily coats a spoon.
Spread into a 9x12 glass dish, cover with plastic wrap. Freeze 2 hours.
Use a cookie scoop to form the dough. Dredge in flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs or panko. Place on a lined cookie sheet. If saving for later use, cover with plastic wrap. Once frozen solid they can be placed in a zip-lock plastic bag and stored in the freezer.
Heat olive oil to 350 degrees. Heat enough oil to cover the croquetas. Cook through, turning them as you go, and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately or park them in a slack oven (about 200 degrees) for up to thirty minutes.
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